MyE28.com

Ok guru's needed, for starters here is my Borg Warner 51T and Rapid Spool manifold. I know that the 51T isn't the ideal turbo for the m30 and it should be on the lacking side of things. But it gets me started.


As we can see the exhaust dump portion is getting in the way of the wastegate port on the manifold. Which leads me to the questions: what is the dump section actually called since the down pipe will be further in the system? Also, what can I use to replace this exhaust portion?

It's called the downpipe.
You can probably buy a flange, then weld on that.

Couldn't find your turbo but maybe its the same as this one?
Looks kinda the same.


http://www.turbo-flanges.com/product_in ... ucts_id=32

How is the turbo mounted? high in front, or low in rear. Can't you flip the turbine outlet, if not maybe flip front for back so compressor is conflicting with dump,then reclock compressor outlet.

marc79euro645 wrote:How is the turbo mounted? high in front, or low in rear. Can't you flip the turbine outlet, if not maybe flip front for back so compressor is conflicting with dump,then reclock compressor outlet.

It will mount high in front, not willing to settle for low in the rear.

After more research found out that this particular turbo is referred to the "GM8". Still haveing a hard time finding downpipe flanges, so I might have to just buy some 0.25" stock and make my own.
Got the down pipe off, have a couple solutions brewing.

Starting with the wrong hardware is a bad idea. You will ending spending more time and money making it work and change it anyway. It's always better to be patient and buy better parts.

X2. Never done this myself but in all the builds I have watched, that's exactly what happens.

T_C_D wrote:Starting with the wrong hardware is a bad idea. You will ending spending more time and money making it work and change it anyway. It's always better to be patient and buy better parts.

I completely agree with this sentiment, but seeing "hob-cobbled" projects is something that has always been dear to my heart. And although BW hasn't been the most common used turbo brand for the bmw community, I feel like it has a good enough track record to use. But trust me, aside from this whole down pipe issue, I plan on "most" of the build being fairly legit.

Ok some progress to be reported. Please let the bimmer gods spare me for my wrongs. WARNING pic heavy.

Got the old headers out, with all the individual pipes it was a really tight fit.


I may have got a little mad and used some destructive methods.


Next pain in the ass was this stupid air box mount, so like any brute among us... I bent it




Then cut it.
Next problem is the angle of my flange, It's towards the wheel well and too close. Has anyone dealt with this? Did you hammer the wheel well? Did you cut some of it out? I'm open to suggestions.


Test fit because I need to measure for my brewing down pipe solution.



One problem is that is sits a bit too high for the hood. I might be able to get it low enough just by rotating the inlet.

First off I would clear everything out if the area by the turbo, I relocated my coil just because of the shear heat coming off the turbo and down pipe. Next I would remove the windshield washer tank because it ussually gets in the way when it comes time to plumb. Yes you might have to hammer in the wheel we'll but it looks like that tiny turbo will fit. You are also going to want to remove the internal Wastegate, as it will free up room. Easiest way to do that is to tap the flange and use the right length bolt along with lock washers to keep the internal flap shut. As for the outlet, you will need to clock the turbo so that the oil drain is perpendicular to the ground , that also allows you rotate the outlet. The down pipe should be easy, get some 5/16 steel then trace out the old one and just buy a vband and weld it in.

Also it's a shame you cut the headers because you could've sold them and used that torwards a good turbo.

I see this build is going to be an adventure.

I can't believe you used a sawzall on the headers to get them out.

mitch5 wrote: Also it's a shame you cut the headers because you could've sold them and used that torwards a good turbo.

Thanks for the advice.
That's whats the parts car is for, so if you guys need any basic E28 parts let me know ------> http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=134204

Also A couple side questions: Firstly: exhaust studs... They're suppoosed to be better with the heat. Do you have to use studs, I would much rather use bolts and don't really see the issue as long as you use ones for high temps. Second: Heat, as you might be able to see my manifold is pretty close to the A/C line and brake lines, has anyone been worried about that on their own cars? Anyone insulated it? I may make aluminum heat shields.

Daaaaaaang.

So you are basically a noob. Like for real.

Hey, make sure that mitsu flange I linked you to will fit your turbo.
it looks exactly like that same shit.






Also, you can clock that compressor housing (aluminum side) so that it's out of the way of the hood.
I would rotate it counter clockwise so the inlet is pointing up.

Is the turbo hitting anything? looks ok to me.
Yes you can use bolts. I use bolts. Just re-torque them after acouple heat cycles.

Shadow wrote:Daaaaaaang.

So you are basically a noob. Like for real.

Hey, make sure that mitsu flange I linked you to will fit your turbo.

Also, you can clock that compressor housing (aluminum side) so that it's out of the way of the hood.
I would rotate it counter clockwise so the inlet is pointing up.

Is the turbo hitting anything? looks ok to me.
Yes you can use bolts. I use bolts. Just re-torque them after acouple heat cycles.

Yes first turbo build. And already rotated the inlet. Removed some things but still have to cut the other airbox mounts. And that flange for the downpipe won't work, it would disrupt airflow, but I already made one Anyway.

For the record, that is not a genuine RSI "Good & Tight" manifold. It is a cheap copy of it.

Good & Tight wrote:For the record, that is not a genuine RSI "Good & Tight" manifold. It is a cheap copy of it.

That's unfortunate.

T_C_D wrote:

Good & Tight wrote:For the record, that is not a genuine RSI "Good & Tight" manifold. It is a cheap copy of it.

That's unfortunate.

Unfortunate for the OP for sure, no warranty on that cheap manifold.
Not sure why he would claim it's a RSI manifold ....?

Good & Tight wrote:For the record, that is not a genuine RSI "Good & Tight" manifold. It is a cheap copy of it.

Now that makes me mad, because the seller said it was and then said he didn't end up doing a turbo build. It wasn't much cheaper either.

Good & Tight wrote: Unfortunate for the OP for sure, no warranty on that cheap manifold.
Not sure why he would claim it's a RSI manifold ....?

It was bad enough when you sent you manifold over and had it produced in China and now it's been ripped off. Ultimately, less quality manifolds are sold (mine and your original) and someone else benefits from your engineering while the end user gets a piece of crap.

Is the copy the same thickness as the original rsi?

Good & Tight wrote:For the record, that is not a genuine RSI "Good & Tight" manifold. It is a cheap copy of it.

Just mailed back the other manifold, was able to get a refund, paypal is my friend just waiting on them to receive. Hook me up and take my money Otis. Also I have a couple questions about the dimensions.

Bcoronado1 wrote:

Good & Tight wrote:For the record, that is not a genuine RSI "Good & Tight" manifold. It is a cheap copy of it.

Just mailed back the other manifold, was able to get a refund, paypal is my friend just waiting on them to receive. Hook me up and take my money Otis. Also I have a couple questions about the dimensions.

Replied to your PM.

How could you tell it wasn't one of your manifolds?

Shadow wrote:How could you tell it wasn't one of your manifolds?

Mine do not have a dual pattern turbo flange.

Ben - how bout an update on your turbo project?

Ok finally have enough parts to start making some updates: As always I'm trying to prove that we can turbo these cars for relatively inexpensive
Finally picked up a b35 harmonic balancer. Needed if you are going with a B34 or later for the EMS.


Bought some rebuilt 32lb bosch injectiors for cheap ($70).
Did the math after I bought them and If i did the numbers right these will only take me up to 360hp max so I'll likely go bigger later on, but this is a good "safe" start.


Picked up a hy35 and a new girl (Only current picture of the hy35 atm. The turbo for 3 reasons 1: Go big or go home, 2: The RSI manifold only fits T4 and i couldn't find a T4 exhaust housing for the GM8. (Honestly the GM8 would have worked fine with the ebay manifold because it was set up for T3 or T4, and honestly seemed to be made just as well, and thick, but that's just my observation. Sorry Ottis.
HX35:$100 used, in good condition.
New girl:honestly she's been positive gains so far, but we will see how supportive she is in the future. So far she has been "researching" best colors for the car.


Going with the new Ford slot style MAF since it has the MAF and IAT all in 1 sensor. 3 wires are for air flow and 2 are for air temp
Sensor $18 local junkyard
70mm housing $70 shipped.


Bought a 40mm WG to fit the manifold. In my opinion, just from shopping around there doesn't seem to be as many carriers for that style so it cost a bit more. I'll update price once i find the receipt.
Question though: The WG clamp isn't fitting on the manifold, and it has this ring. Now I am pretty sure that I do indeed need this ring, and I'm guessing seller just went cheap on the clamp and I'll have to buy another. But give me your input.

Bcoronado1 wrote:
Picked up a hy35 and a new girl (Only current picture of the hy35 atm. The turbo for 3 reasons 1: Go big or go home, 2: The RSI manifold only fits T4 and i couldn't find a T4 exhaust housing for the GM8. (Honestly the GM8 would have worked fine with the ebay manifold because it was set up for T3 or T4, and honestly seemed to be made just as well, and thick, but that's just my observation. Sorry Ottis.
HX35:$100 used, in good condition.
New girl:honestly she's been positive gains so far, but we will see how supportive she is in the future. So far she has been "researching" best colors for the car.

Ben - Nice choice on the new seat cover. Whatever the color you come up with, she'll make it even better.

I only see the rapid spool one on ebay for 550.

Shadow wrote:I only see the rapid spool one on ebay for 550.

If you see 8 bolt holes like this on the top of the flange its not the rapid spool manifold.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M30-B35-B34 ... qK&vxp=mtr

Also, I'm not saying that it's any better or worse. I'm just saying that after buying them both that they seem to be the same quality and it's nice to have the T3 mount holes just in case you find a good deal on a T3 turbocharger.

Yes you need that ring, it is for sealing. It should pop into the housing with a small lip, i remember having to put the ring down when i mounted it, which somewhat preloaded the inner wastegate spring. was a pain to get it in. Pushing wastegate against header flange made is flush, and then you can get clamp on.

Bcoronado1 wrote:
Bought a 40mm WG to fit the manifold. In my opinion, just from shopping around there doesn't seem to be as many carriers for that style so it cost a bit more. I'll update price once i find the receipt.
Question though: The WG clamp isn't fitting on the manifold, and it has this ring. Now I am pretty sure that I do indeed need this ring, and I'm guessing seller just went cheap on the clamp and I'll have to buy another. But give me your input.