MyE28.com

Hello All,

The Car:
Delphine with a burgundy red interior, sunroof, 202k miles and factory LSD.
It has been sitting in the driveway for 15 or so years. Since a friend of mine gave it to me because he had to many bad experiences with it. He bought it for $500 and put another $300 in on the wheels.
It had starting problems even then.
The in tank transfer pump is dead. Have an Airtex replacement transfer assembly however the sender unity studs are a little off causing interference with the return line. If I can clean the old assembly I will return it and fit an aftermarket pump to it and return the Airtex.
The gas tank is full of rust and varnish. It appears solid with no leaks, does have dent, but for the cost of cleaning I maybe better off just replacing it.
Type 33 BMW wheels with new BFGoodrich Comp-2 All Season 225/50r16 tires.
I recently committed myself to get it going with a transferring the title, getting Collector Vehicle plates, a new set of tires, and collecting up parts. The plan had always been to either get it going or take parts to transfer to an e3, it just has taken a while to get to it.
It will need a drivers side door and front fender, possibly a trunk lit, possibly a gas tank, speakers, and no doubt many other things.
Most of the rubber seems surprisingly good though some has definitely perished.
The leather is a little stiff but looks good, actually the interior looks pretty nice except the cracked dash and the crumbling package shelf speakers.

Once I have a picture hosting I will include some as I go.
Here we go: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 6bbc7acbdb

Thanks,
Beej

I just did that! Well, 10 years anyway. I have an assload of records so the car was well cared for, the guy was BMWCCA 24/7. Frozen clutch hydraulics was the worst of it for me. Hit me up if you want to chat and GOOD LUCK!

In full disclosure the car is not QUITE as immaculate as it appears, but it is very very solid. The front valance is done with house primer my friend was using when I happened to drive down my old street for example, so yah shit like that will have to be addressed this winter. New tires, new hydraulics, lots of cleaning, both fuel pumps and filter (do them both) and tightened up my fusebox contacts too. I fucked up my alternator myself when I was extremely tired and put the battery in backwards so now I have a new battery AND alternator. At 155K it was on the original with cosmoline still on it so might as well, anyway right.

My $600 (+$2,200 or so) Wunderkar

Good luck man! That looks like a never ending project!

So far less then $1k in parts and half of that was tires so not bad. Not worrying about winning a beauty contest with it just yet, just looking to make it sound and dependable first.

The fuel system/gas tank is the big problem to solve. I have the tank pulled but it is looking like it is almost as much to get the thing professionally cleaned as it is to buy a new one. I will continue to shop around for a justifiable cost or simply replace it.

Just swapped out the rear sway bar links. It was surprising easy.



Hm.. It does not look like the link works for posting as an image so try this: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 501fee512a

The Pitmans are even worse but It looks like I need to drop the car to the ground to get things to align correctly.

Beej

SeattleGuy wrote:I just did that! Well, 10 years anyway. I have an assload of records so the car was well cared for, the guy was BMWCCA 24/7. Frozen clutch hydraulics was the worst of it for me. Hit me up if you want to chat and GOOD LUCK!

In full disclosure the car is not QUITE as immaculate as it appears, but it is very very solid. The front valance is done with house primer my friend was using when I happened to drive down my old street for example, so yah shit like that will have to be addressed this winter. New tires, new hydraulics, lots of cleaning, both fuel pumps and filter (do them both) and tightened up my fusebox contacts too. I fucked up my alternator myself when I was extremely tired and put the battery in backwards so now I have a new battery AND alternator. At 155K it was on the original with cosmoline still on it so might as well, anyway right.

My $600 (+$2,200 or so) Wunderkar

Your car does look nice.

No records on this car but I have been dabbling in old BMWs for a long time so that does not concern me greatly. This however is my first e28.

I have a new fuel filter already even though the one that is in there is probably very low miles based on it's cleanliness. High pressure pump I am holding off on until it is tested. New Battery installed.
New air filter installed, now new rear sway bar links installed too.

Have not changed the oil yet as I would like to have it running before doing so.

I've been through the fuses before so not too worried there.

Then engine turns over and I have had the engine running in the past so I am not to concerned about it other then solving the start problem (Transfer pump?).

The hydraulics are a concern as the car has sat for so long but I would like to source some e34 brakes to give it more stopping (the braided SS lines came today). So that leaves the brake and clutch masters and the clutch slave and possibly the hard lines to potentially be issues, the clutch slave the most likely to perish of those based on previous cars.

Oh man! Taurusrot interior! I would love to have that as a parts car.

Kyle in NO wrote:Oh man! Taurusrot interior! I would love to have that as a parts car.

My drivers age kids who are used to seeing just on the outside are now taking looks inside and getting surprisingly covetous. Thanks for letting me know what BMW calls that color.

Looks like I have a deal for a used fuel tank w/ hanger, transfer pump, sender and the drivers door sheet metal for $200. Sending the Airtex pump assembly that the sender will not fit without modifications back (-$113).

Found a place to clean restore the old tank for $450+ and would take four to six weeks.

What is the deal with fuel tank prices. Most US sites seem to be in the $800-$1000 range while the Euro prices are in the 200-300 euro range.

My drivers age kids who are used to seeing just on the outside are now taking looks inside and getting surprisingly covetous. Thanks for letting me know what BMW calls that color.[/quote]

That means this car is a 1985 model. Only year that color was available. I’ve been looking for an interior like this for 15 years. My boss’s 528e came with it, and they unfortunately didn’t take care of the leather.

That means this car is a 1985 model

Yep. For some reason I had always thought it was an '86 but when I went and did the Title and transfer recently it came up an '85 in the state system. VIN lookup confirmed it, as well as the car being originally optioned with a LSD.

Replaced the Pitmans!

Again, a surprisingly easy job, but then again the car is up on jack stands making things like these go faster.

Basically followed the procedure on the link below. I did however after braking the bolts loose use a floor jack to load up the corner I was working on. I did this with maybe the false understanding that there could be binding if the angles of the two bolts were far apart. having the suspension loaded did however mean I could fully torque the bolts without dropping the car back down.

Procedure:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/51281

Pics:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 79724336d7
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... f5ef12853c
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... a509149cc0
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 54643c8068


I was planning to bleed the hydraulics however I got a text from someone with a brake setup from an e32. Ideally an e34 (non-540i) setup seems like the best option, the same surface area and lighter, however for $120 it is very tempting...

Thanks,
Beej

Those Pitmans were crunchy! That cannot be the only suspension you are addressing....

Bonsaibacker wrote:Those Pitmans were crunchy! That cannot be the only suspension you are addressing....

The rear swaybar links, but they were not as bad. So far, yeah that has been it. Everything else seems tight, boots complete, no cracked rubber. Brake lines I have replacements for when I upgrade those but they all look healthy too.

Fuel tank and transfer pump were disasters.

Congrats to you sir! Finding tons of "loose" and crunchy stuff on my not-often-driven-garage rod. Keep us updated.

Bonsaibacker wrote:Congrats to you sir! Finding tons of "loose" and crunchy stuff on my not-often-driven-garage rod. Keep us updated.

Once the car starts getting some exercise I am sure lots of exciting things will start popping up. Right now in hurry up and wait mode.

Waiting for a gas tank to arrive. Need new hoses and clamps but those are quick to get. Then I will get to know if the hard lines are clogged.
Looking for the best deal on exterior side door window seals.
Debating the wisdom of changing the oil before getting the engine running again. I should probably add a bottle of ATF when the oil is changed and give it 600 miles and change it again.
Debating if I should flush the Hydraulic system now before I know the condition of the calipers. Before I've had to choose if I upgrade the brakes.
I did hit some of the underbody and trunk with Fluid Film to inhibit rust.
The muffler has numerous small holes. Looks like Ansa has them but it will involve cutting the exhaust pipe to fit. Something I may be better off taking to a shop.
Thinking that sport seats would be more comfortable then the comfort seats but tracking down a pair in Taurusrot in good shape for a decent price is unlikely.

So I am a little antsy for parts to continue on now that I have actually started. Went around with a little more of the Fluid Film then I did a conditioning on the leather. Everything looks better however the drivers seat needs an appointment at an upholsterer. The arm rest (never use it anyway) has some weird crazing going on and the seat bottom has some cracks that should be sown.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 2fee9c6128
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 64c5fc5310
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 74f85e3940
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 499bcbab7a

Beej

The tip of the middle HVAC control arm is busted, Anyone know if the whole unit must be replace or just the arm can be done on an '85.

Thanks,
Beej

A little bit of an update.

Both of the fuel pumps have been tested and appear to work correctly.

The replacement fuel tank cleaned up and ready to go when the skinny fuel hose arrives.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... a5b55102e7

It would be nice to replace the rubber surround but they are NLA unless someone knows where a secret stash is.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... e8de27fcd2

The thread started for sorting out the sound system.: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=149558
The thread started for sorting out the leather: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=149639

Beej

Beej wrote:A little bit of an update.
It would be nice to replace the rubber surround but they are NLA unless someone knows where a secret stash is.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... e8de27fcd2

Beej

I'll try to find out where they took my parts car. I believe it was still intact.....
C

I'll try to find out where they took my parts car. I believe it was still intact.....

That would be cool, though I am not sure if it's rubber will be much better. By any chance did it have a good FL fender or a clean trunk lid?

Thanks,
Beej

Got some more time in and progress made.

Replaced the fuel Filter. The old one was a Napa and did not look old however whoever put it in put it in backwards. Replaced the line to the high pressure pump and the fuel return line. Oh and yes tested the HP pump and it does run as does the transfer pump.

Put the replacement gas tank in with new lines all around and replaced the overflow tank as I broke a nub off trying to take the a hose off. Seriously use and exacto on those things it makes life much easier. putting the tank in was easier then expected at the old one was more difficult then I expected to get out however understanding the geometry of the situation helped.

Rehung the exhaust, new rubber as the old ones looked past due.

Got the last wheel on and dropped the car and torqued all the wheels.

Put new gas into the tank and gave it a try. It turned over, but did not start so time to sort that.

Got lots more to do however the car is on the ground with a number of known problems fixed. Just need to keep moving forward.

Beej

Made a little more progress.

Gas tank is in with new Fuel lines all around, new Fuel filter, and both fuel pumps test that they actually push gas.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 77aa12bd6a

Crawling under the car putting in the Fuel tank and rehanging the exhaust a discovery was made. The rear bumper did its job but now needs to be put to rest and replaced.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... a6adb43611

The filler flange after cleaning and a little paint and primer to fix the surface. Still putting it on was tough and only made the cracks around the filler neck worse.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... e8de27fcd2



Engine turns over but no start.
Even with Starter Fluid it did not start which has worked in the past so maybe dealing with more then one problem. It also has a good spark. So even if it wasn't getting fuel the starter fluid should have allowed it to catch.

Looking at: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/31961-e28 ... ing-guide/ It looks like many of these things can be skipped as there is a apparently strong spark, that would indicate a fuel problem however the starter fluid should have allowed it to kick which it did not. On top of this I have started the car periodically with the aid of starter fluid. So what should I be checking?

Thanks,
Beej

After thinking about it overnight, I need to start working the fuel side of the "no start" situation. Found this page: http://www.hiperformancestore.com/motronic.htm which should help. I also have the motrinic book... somewhere. The ETM too, and some others but they got separated from the BMW shop manuals, that is what happens when you leave something too long.

Beej

Did not have any time over the weekend to do more then to establish no action from the injectors. It looks like the Fuel relay is shot but that seems strange in that it was working when testing the fuel pumps.

Minimal progress on the no-start. There are other electrical gremlins which appear to be isolated and not related so far but it seems like a good plan to eliminate to make sure.

In the process of cleaning up and chasing gremlins found that the trunk lid is not as sound as it first appeared. most of it looks pretty good, except the screw holes for the tool trey which have rusted out and front vertical edge where it meets up with the trunk lid gasket has a couple of rust through spots. The plan was to replace the trunk lid anyway so the tool trey would mount, just expected it to be an item that could wait.

The trunk floor is OK, some minor surface rust however the sound deadener is not pretty. The last section at the bottom of the picture is detaching, the forward most section need an application of something to fix the surface and prevent further deterioration. Looks like the factory just painted it, any reason not to simply take the same approach.

Picture of the trunk: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... d873ea1515

Thanks,
Beej