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Yesterday Dad and I were trying to torque big nut on engine stand, so it's done and out of the way. That when engine is dropped in it's done so you don't have to worry about it. Do not just impact it, they can and have come loose. Remember you are also pressing it onto the crank with the nut, as well as torquing it. We tried a two man job of holding it and giant torque wrench was not working. Dad came up with this:

For this you need a strong worktable, or something solid to oppose 325ftlb of torque.

Swap by samleisey, on Flickr

Tools Needed:
-Big enough torque wrench (ours is 3/4 inch drive)
-tool to hold the crank
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/ ... v4QAvD_BwE


You attach SIR tool to crank make it so handle is on driver side. Then rest it on table, or whatever you are using. Can use a jack handle to give leverage for SIR tool, so there's less stress on table. Then slowly torque to specs, 100 ftlbs, increase to 200, 300 and then to 325 ft lbs. It's far easier to torque pushing down, so due it on same side as table.

Swap by samleisey, on Flickr

I did similar, but made a tool out of a 4' long 1" square piece of tubing and an aluminum flange machined to fit the crank end, then used a transmission jack to support the free end.

What if I don't have guns like your dad does?

Are you a helicopter mechanic ? Not many know that term

I like your approach but would put a long 4X4 piece of wood under the engine to keep from loading up the back of the block and engine stand. I did this with an E34 M5 TTY bolt.., now that was fun !

jhh925 wrote:What if I don't have guns like your dad does?

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