A Dash Replacement Story and DIY.

[cbumga11]

So a few years ago I bought my second E28 minus the terminal rust of my first. BUT along with getting a rust free example meant getting one which the dash looked like an IED had gone off on the inside.

I've followed these resources as guides, https://www.1988bmwm5.com/replace-cracked-dashboard/ and http://home.insightbb.com/~todd.kenyon/dash.htm. If you see repeat images on my post from the previous threads, it's because I did this job single handedly and taking pictures fell to the wayside out of frustration.

Tools Needed:
-Small and large Phillips head screw drivers.
-8mm-12mm sockets, 20mm for Steering wheel
-Trim Removal Tools (not necessary, but less likely to damage brittle plastic)
-303 protectant or any other detailing spray
-patience
-Zip Lock bags
-Long Screwdriver/socket extension/anything relatively long and slender.

REMOVAL
1). Remove Steering Wheel: Remove center steering wheel. It will just slide off, and disconnect horn connections. I know, I know, you dont have to remove the steering wheel. The dash and the speedometer come out with it in. BUT, if you don't take it out, it is more flex and contortion on the new dash which I assume is in better shape than your existing dash. But hey, if you want to ruin a $1k dollar dash because you need to save literally 45 seconds that's on you.

2). Remove Speedometer and OBC: Two screws on the top of the speedometer and gently pry out. Having your steering wheel removed makes this easier #soapbox. Remove the left connector first, gently angle the speedometer into the dash, exposing the left side. Pry the black connector harness up with a flat head screwdriver. GENTLY. Remove the harness and the two small connections. There will be two smaller clips below them which are blue. Remove them as well. Now rotate the speedometer to the left, exposing the two electrical harness on the right side. Same process, raise locking clip and remove. Gently remove all remaining connections for bulbs etc. Next remove the OBC. Two small phillips head screws hold this in. Raise the locking clip on the bottom (green harness) and 2x connectors. Label Ziplock bags with screw locations and place screws inside.




3). Remove Driver side steering wheel kick panel, glove box and radio/HVAC housings: Kick panel- A few screws securing to the dash. Disconnect breaker switch, Temperature module, etc. HVAC- Should be Two phillips head screws on both driver and passenger side as well as 2x 10mm bolts securing them to the dash. I opted to remove my housing totally for a deep clean and crack repair. This is optional but I'm a firm believer in the more operating room the better. Your call. Set aside all bots in a labeled zip lock bag. Glove box- Step 1) Open the box. Step 2) Remove your junk from the box. Step 3). Unclip the box. Step 4). That's how you remove the box. Step 5). unbolt the dash from the upper glove box securing latch. 2x phillips head screws.




4). Now with the drivers kick panel and glove box removed, you should have access to the blower motor area and air box. There will be 2x metal locking clips. Unsecure these. Separate ducting from blower to dash.


5). Unbolt dash securing brackets on either side of the car. 2x per side. Place bolts in ziplock bag, set aside.


6). In your speedometer area, there is 1x bolt securing the dash to the bulkhead. Remove, label, bag, set aside.

6). Remove A-Pillar trim. Gently use a trim tool (no screwdriver, you animal), and pry away from the A Pillar. This is a great time to epoxy any cracks on the inside of the trim as well as a nice generous coat of 303 protectant or whatever you use to protect your 30 year old trim.

7). Remove vents. Place screws into labeled bags and set aside.

Now you're ready to start tugging. At this point it should be pretty loose. There is a clip, unseen when dash is installed, in the middle of the rear of the dash (At the windscreen). Pull towards the back of the car, and it should come free. Set the dash aside and cool off. Installation is far more difficult than removal.

At this point, I placed my new dash on saw horses and sprayed a liberal amount of vinyl dash protectant and cleaned it up. I removed all the dash vents and placed them into plastic bin and sprayed them with air to remove 30 years of dust and then soaked them in degreaser, rinsed them off, dried overnight and sprayed them down with vinyl protectant. They look brand new after this point.

By now you're probably riding a high and you're probably going to want to push forward to reinstall. I'd recommend otherwise. Take few minutes and clean your work area. Vacuum the floor boards because it is going to be dusty as hell. CLEAN YOUR WINDSCREEN. That area hasn't seen any love since ...well...ever. Set both your new dash and old dash (with ducting attached) and look at how its all attached.



In the areas with exposed wiring and the degraded electrical fabric tape, I went through and reapplied tape to secure unbundled wires to prevent any unnecessary cuts during reinstallation.

[tig]

Thanks for posting this.

[cbumga11]

INSTALLATION

PICS INCOMING ONCE I FIGURE OUT HOW TO ATTACH GOOGLE IMAGES

At this point I'm on my second day of work. When I rush, I break things. When I break things, I give up. When I give up I sell my stuff at a considerable loss to you guys. I've danced that dance before. Not today.

Step 1) Remove all ducting from Old dash onto new (vinyl protected) dash. There are 7x small phillips head screws which attach the duct work to the dash. Remove these. Spray these down with more protectant. Granted they are not exposed to sun like the dash, but at least they'll look good when you post them up for sale assuming you didn't follow this DIY explicitly. Plus lubed up parts make for easier installation. Verify the clip on the middle at the windscreen is installed and orientation will mate to the car (should be facing the drivers side/passenger side, not front to back). On the second image below you'll notice the clip on the middle of the windscreen. Verify orientation of clip faces left/right not forward to rear of car. If it does rotate during removal, take pliers and gently rotate back to factory orientation.


If you make fun of my ugly toes, I'll delete this post, delete my account, turn my e28 into a drift missile and drive it off a cliff. Fair warining.

Step 2) Walk the new dash to the interior of the car. I had removed my seats (another DIY upcoming) and started to fit the dash. It is extremely tight fitting with the windscreen in. DO NOT FORCE IT. I had the most trouble with the brackets on the A Pillar area and the wiring bulkhead bar. I found that gently pulling out from the bottom made just the right amount of space to get it in for the A pillars. For the bulkhead, I gently pulled down and wedged the ductwork in. I must have walked from drivers side to the passenger side 100x times getting fitment correct. But when its in, you'll know. Once in, do not secure it. At this point, you need to worry about the clip in the middle towards the windscreen. I do not have a picture of this, but you can see what you're doing with a flashlight aimed towards the firewall and inside of the windshield. Take a long extension or long flat head screwdriver or any long skinny tool you have which can encourage the clip into the bracket through the vacant OBC area. Wiggle the dash, and press the clip forward. MAGIC.

Next, you need to finesse the duct work to the blower housing. Thankfully the ductwork from the blower to the dash is flexible enough to accommodate. Take a small plastic trim tool (or screw driver, you monster) and work the ductwork together. Once they mated you're in the clear to reconnect the metal clips at the blower housing. Be careful. I broke my drivers side plastic. Gone girl. Now you've got that done, you're home free. Install the A Pillar trim, make sure all electrical cable are fed through the appropriate spaces and reverse the install.

[RetiredDoc]

I doubt that I will live long enough to swap another dash in my e28.

But if I do, the windshield is the first thing I plan to remove. I believe that when these cars were assembled the windshields were installed after the dash was inserted downward through the windshield opening. That’s why the ducting gets in the way when replacing the dash from inside the car.

I wish I had known earlier how easy it is to remove and reinstall the e28 windshield.

[Bonsaibacker]

Congratulations! This is a daunting task but you have provided a ray of light.. I agree with RetiredDoc that removing the windshield would allow for easier access and assist. But that also is a task that is not for the faint of heart. Thank you and congrats again!

[sixseries]

Awesome! where did you get a crack free dash?

[Ordnator]

I doubt that I will live long enough to swap another dash in my e28.

But if I do, the windshield is the first thing I plan to remove. I believe that when these cars were assembled the windshields were installed after the dash was inserted downward through the windshield opening. That’s why the ducting gets in the way when replacing the dash from inside the car.

I wish I had known earlier how easy it is to remove and reinstall the e28 windshield.

+ 1 for doing this with the dash out.

I to have exchanged a dash with the windscreen in place, took me the entire weekend and some, had to replace a couple of 30 year old brittle ducts that I broke, and I still have the scars on my forearms.

Best regards,

Mick

[Ordnator]

I doubt that I will live long enough to swap another dash in my e28.

But if I do, the windshield is the first thing I plan to remove. I believe that when these cars were assembled the windshields were installed after the dash was inserted downward through the windshield opening. That’s why the ducting gets in the way when replacing the dash from inside the car.

I wish I had known earlier how easy it is to remove and reinstall the e28 windshield.

+ 1 for doing this with the dash out.

I too have exchanged a dash with the windscreen in place, took me the entire weekend and some, had to replace a couple of 30 year old brittle ducts that I broke, and I still have the scars on my forearms.

Best regards,

Mick

[cbumga11]

Awesome! where did you get a crack free dash?

My first and rust crippled E28 came with a crack free dash. Pristine shape.

[cbumga11]

I doubt that I will live long enough to swap another dash in my e28.

But if I do, the windshield is the first thing I plan to remove. I believe that when these cars were assembled the windshields were installed after the dash was inserted downward through the windshield opening. That’s why the ducting gets in the way when replacing the dash from inside the car.

I wish I had known earlier how easy it is to remove and reinstall the e28 windshield.

+ 1 for doing this with the dash out.

I to have exchanged a dash with the windscreen in place, took me the entire weekend and some, had to replace a couple of 30 year old brittle ducts that I broke, and I still have the scars on my forearms.

Best regards,

Mick

Hindsight being 20/20, i'd remove the windscreen and replace the gasket to eliminate any possibility of a leak.

[librarian]

Nice work and thanks for a new post on this subject. I’m hoping to do this in the next few months or so as well...or as soon as I can source the right replacement dash.

[Mdreamer]

Thank you for the thorough write-up. I'm not much of a DIYer, but I have tools, a space, and common sense. With that in mind, if I had my windshield removed before I took on the project, what level of difficulty would you say it is?