Getrag 260* tighten and torque output flange

[Notelect]

I'm trying to tighten down an output flange on a getrag 260, I don't have a flange holder to stop it from spinning.

Is it safe to use a pry bar below the flange to hold it in place (between the mounts for the transmission and the flange/output shaft), or is there a possibility for the mounts to snap from the pressure of the torque?

I saw online a guy do it, but that doesn't mean it the safest method

Edit: accidentally typed 250, it's a 260

[Mike W.]

I don't quite follow your description, but from the sounds of it I would just go to the local hardware store, get a piece of steel flat bar, drill 2 holes in it and bolt it to the flange. With that and at most a piece of wood for padding, it can go against the body and you can tighten it. Doesn't need to be fancy or all 3 or 4 bolts, two should do, the output flange isn't all that tight, not like the front crank nut on an M30.

[Notelect]

With that and at most a piece of wood for padding, it can go against the body and you can tighten it.

What part of the body? Below the flange are where the mounts attach to the transmission to mount to car.

The flange torque specs call for tightening to 190Nm. Then loosen, then tighten to 120Nm. (this is to set the shims I believe)

I'm worried about breaking those mounting parts under the pressure of the first torque

[Mike W.]

While I do have an E36, I'm much more familiar with the underside of an E28, which has the crossmember in front of the output flange. But then do it the other way, have the steel arm against a block of wood on the pass side. That should minimize torque forces to the crossmember. With the tranny in neutral. Or post on an E36 forum as that appears to be what you're working on.

[Notelect]

I'm working on an e28. I see I said I have a 250, it's a 260. My apologies

[Notelect]

Forgot to post update, ended sending it and used a pry bar between the mounts and flange and was able to torque without it spinning