MyE28.com

It took three full days, but I did manage to complete everything before the rain starts tomorrow.

I repalced all the cooling system components and every piece of rubber and plastic (fuel lines, vent lines, idle air lines, reservoirs, intake bellows, oil drain line, washer hose) under the hood.

The engine was so dirty that I really couldn't put it back together without cleaning it. I used a stainless steel brush on all the aluminum and painted the black pieces.

Devinder

BEFORE






DURING



AFTER

hey how do you clean your coolant bottle? and wiper fluid tank? or are they new ones?

Nice job.

yeah... VERY NICE JOB... looks great

thanks guys -- the tanks can be cleaned using a $100 bill. The washer reservoir is $12.48 (from Brian). I don't have the invoice on the M5 coolant reservoir.

Devinder

100$ for 2 new plastic tanks? sheesh

Sweet work, Devinder!

Very nice work, pricey too.

I know what some of the hoses and bellows cost for the S38 and M88 engines.

Rich

100$ for 2 new plastic tanks? sheesh

You obviously don't understand that ///M means $$$s. $88 is cheap insurance and about 1% of the cost of an engine rebuild for an M5. Last time I checked, one could send a good core engine to MM with $9K and get a rebuilt enegine back in return.

Rich

WOW ........what a difference three days makes. Great job. The end result makes it all worth it.

Beautiful! Besides the stainless steel brush, what'd you use to clean the parts (i.e. what magic "cleaning juice" did you use)?

Excellent job Devinder! Looks beautiful! Let's hope the beauty on the outside will soak in a little and pep up the old girl.

-E

damn thats awsome!!!!! hard to believe it's the same engine bay!

I'm drooling. OUTSTANDING!!

Shawn,

I used a plastic putty knife and brake cleaner, being careful not to get it on painted surfaces or plastic. Some places i used a toothbrush with brake cleaner. I used the stainless brush after that to remove the resude from the cleaner and the aluminum oxide. I replaced the hardware on the cooling system (water pump bolts, t-stat bolts) with stainless. I panted the steel water pipe and engine lift point. I didn't clean the block as much as I could have because it's hidden and I plan on rebuilding the engine soon. Removing the intake manifold, and everything in the front of the engine made it much easier.

Duke,

I blame you and Ron for the sickness.

Florida,

To me, the issue of replacing the coolant bottle has very little to do with its individual cost or even the cost of an engine rebuild. If you're going to change cooling system parts as they fail (which is not necessarily a bad idea), then it makes no sense to buy a new bottle until your's fails. I choose to replace cooling system parts as preventative maintenance, so to me a coolant bottle is a "wear part". The only parts I didn't change were the rad and heater core. I had paper showing that the rad was replaced recently, and the car is built around the heater core so that's going to get changed when I redo the dash.

Devinder