Here's another way to dump the afm.

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Sep 12, 2005 5:31 PM

I replaced the pro-m maf conversion with the split second psc-001 signal conditioner this weekend. The setup replaces the stock afm for a less restrictive intake & greater tuning. This is on my '89 535. The split second r4 software allows the stock afm to remain as a secondary input to map its signal. This made it very easy to mimic the signal the motronic 1.3 needed from an afm. There is now a maf in the afm's place, providing a secondary signal to the psc-001. The psc-004 can convert a maf signal also, but has no map sensor.
The software highlights the cell being used in the fuel maps. It is very easy to make adjustments with this.

http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/catalo ... -p-62.html

russc · Post by **russc** » Sep 12, 2005 8:39 PM

Yea,
This is similar to the MAF Tuner Pro. The only advantage it has is the closed loop control and a boost controller, but it cost $100 more. Glad to hear yours is working, look forward to hearing more about it. Does the $265 include the wiring harness.

What MAF are you using? How much are those? And, is the burnoff routine built into the MAF unit or does the PSC do that?

RussC

[Edit by russc on [TIME]1126572077[/TIME]]

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Sep 12, 2005 8:52 PM

Howdy Russ,
I am using the pro m maf; the insert works with most mid 90's+ mustange v8 units. As far as I know, there is no burn off cycle; the pro M unit didn't seem to have any burn off cycle either; it could be transparent. The stock e34 air filter housing & filter are used. The maf can be removed or unplugged as the primary airflow signal is from the map. This seems adequate with the rpm pickup. I think the throttle position sensor from an automatic e34 m30 could provide another signal. I hooked up the maf for a referential signal in setting up the maps.
I haven't had a chance to go very far yet; I do like how it is running so far.

bahnstormer · Post by **bahnstormer** » Sep 13, 2005 12:29 AM

looks cool are you tuning with street or dyno time? also how do your afr's look?

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Sep 13, 2005 10:58 AM

Haven't been back to the dyno yet. I will be purchasing an innovate lm-1 wideband sensor for tuning. I'm learning to question the dyno tunes, as the afr probe is taken at the tailpipe, after the catalytic convertor, for imprecise readings. My RD headers do have test ports.

The map, based on the old afm signal, seems to be pretty good. I disconnected the WOT wire, to keep the DME from flipping to the wot map that leans out with maf conversions. The narrowband afr gauge pegs rich under full throttle now.

Russ, the wiring harness is not included with the psc-001. The intake air temperature sensor is also not included. I mounted my intake air sensor on the outer side of the stock air filter housing, for the coldest reading.

90e34535i · Post by **90e34535i** » Sep 13, 2005 1:32 PM

Ive been using that PSC Signal Calibrator with there 3.5 " MAF for almost 2 years now.

Why exactly did you disconnect the WOT wire?, WOT is where the MAF adjustments make the most effect, when the car is running in open loop,

I Use the PSC to tune my WOT mixture just fine, got it steady between 13.3 - 13.6 at WOT.(Using the LM-1 WB02)

Also, Ive never connected another Air Intake Temp Sensor,, My Theory: Ive read that the DME takes AirIntakeTemp into account to calculate the amount of fuel needed, If you connect an Air Temp Sensor, then the DME will comprensate for Temp changes, As WELL as the MAF sensor(the colder, the higher the voltage).

So it would be hard to get predicable reading when the temp changes, I think itl run a little too rich cold, and too lean hot because its taking air temp into account TWICE..

Ive left mine with a constant TEMP,and i havent noticed any AFR changes from temp really.

Only problem, in REALLY hot weather, because the car doesnt retard the timing when its the AIrIntake is hot, If it flips too lean At Part throttle I can get sum pinging, but i pretty much fixed that up tolike 95 F, by configuring the LM-1 WB02 to output 0.5 Volts to the DME at 13.6 AFR, instead of the stock 14.7. So it doesnt flip nearlly as lean durring closed loop.

its been working pretty well so far......switching to MS2 soon.

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Nov 17, 2005 11:21 AM

Here's an update.
The psc001 is running on the map sensor. The maf was removed a while back. The map curve is very good now. The cold 40F mornings see a clean startup, much like the stock afm, since leaning things down a bit. The top end range of cells seem to allow for ever higher values with no consequence. This is with 21lb injectors.

Last weekend was spent installing innovate's lc1 in Jeff's e34. It is a very nice tool seems to provide relevant afr info. That may be what I'll get.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/sc ... roduct=150

truman in GA/AL · Post by **truman in GA/AL** » Nov 17, 2005 12:20 PM

How much did this all set you back? If I can ditch the AFM for less than the ~$900 BMP wants then I might be interested in going the same route eventually.

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Nov 17, 2005 1:18 PM

The psc001 is $265 at Kinetic Motorsport. An intake temperature sensor & connector is needed. A harness can be made & installed in a couple hours. Oh yeah, I also pilferred a shiney ~3.2inch steel tube from the local muffler shop pile.

So, about $300 to convert.

RDAvena · Post by **RDAvena** » Nov 17, 2005 1:31 PM

Martin,

You had mentioned you removed the MAF and added the MAP sensor. was this a generic one or specific?

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Nov 17, 2005 1:41 PM

The psc001 has an internal map sensor. I took vacuum off the test nipple on the hose to the brake booster. The psc1 is mounted in the passenger side ebox. I routed a vacuum hose under the firewall harness. The electrical connections are all made within the ebox. I added a seperate relay & in-line fuse for the map stuff. The relay prolly isn't needed, as the big red with white stripe wire from the main relay that feeds the fuse box is right there.

RDAvena · Post by **RDAvena** » Nov 17, 2005 2:21 PM

ahh soo...

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Nov 25, 2005 12:37 AM

Here's yet another update.
I've tuned the air/fuel ratio's with a new innovate LC-1 wideband o2 kit from DynoTune. They pre-configure the lc1 for a very easy install. The analog output to the dme is not hooked up, as I am still trying to get the fine tuning perfect. The things runs very well now.

On a normally aspirated m30b35, should I be aiming for afr between 14.2 & 13.5?
Also, when not under WOT, how lean can things get, without concern? Off throttle & out of gear, the DME seems to shut down the injectors as predicted. This is mentioned in the lc1 help forum as an opportunity for calibrating the wideband sensor in "free air".

Monotalonawd · Post by **Monotalonawd** » Nov 25, 2005 10:27 PM

Where did you get that air/fuel ratio monitor? I also have the LC-1 wideband but for now, can only monitor the readings on a laptop.

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Nov 26, 2005 2:20 AM

DynoTune, http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/sc ... roduct=129

I just made a new box, with the config switch, LED, & gauge in a single project box. It looks good. The box came with a slide on/off switch, that I wired in line with the rest spdt, to keep it from accidentally resetting.

Monotalonawd · Post by **Monotalonawd** » Nov 26, 2005 7:28 PM

Thanks! Something else to add on my grocery list!

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Nov 26, 2005 10:06 PM

Here's what I did with the gauge, O2 sensor configuration switch & LED. The box is a 3 aaa switched battery box from the local electronics depot. The on/off switch is lined in with the config button, to avoid accidental config routines. The whole thing usually hides under the top center vent.

Post by **Jeremy** » Nov 26, 2005 11:18 PM

Why so lean at WOT?? 0 mm Hg should be around 13.1:1 from start to rev limiter for best power on a naturally aspirated motor. Yours goes way lean starting at 1500rpm! I have trouble you're not experiencing knock with those kind of AFRs under full throttle. It looks like it's set up to get leaner the more you open the throttle, actually. Did you set it that way intentionally or is that just what it's reading? If you did set it that way, what was your rationale for doing so?

Jeremy

bahnstormer · Post by **bahnstormer** » Nov 26, 2005 11:32 PM

he's making power like that for sure =]

Martin in BellevueWA · Post by **Martin in BellevueWA** » Nov 26, 2005 11:43 PM

It isn't lean. That graph is just cell values per the referential map sensor output. Anything over 10, increases the output voltage, per cell. It is the split second software for the psc001; the cell values do not represent a direct output. Sorry for any confusion. & the 14.8 shown in the gauge was snapped with the car shut off. It does go rich at partial throttle.

MyE28.com

MyE28.com

Here's another way to dump the afm.