MyE28.com

Hey all,

Just have a question, and I am new here too.

I have an englne block from a 1988 735 and also from a 1985 535. I have plans to build one of these blocks for a Turbo. I notice that the 735 block (which has the B35 Head) has stronger castings to the outside lower section of the block. Which I am sure it makes the lower end of the block stronger, than the 535 block. I'll try to post a picture.

So I plan on using the 735 block with the bigger valves B35 Head. Question is, I notice on the 735 block the oil filter housing is actually pointing upwards. And on the 535 block, the housing is pointed downwards.

The oil filter housing on the 735 block is crushed. Can I use the housing from the 535 engine, and mount it to the 735 block?

Has this been done before, would the oil flow in the same directions? Or would I be opening a bad can of worms the minute I Start the car??? !@#$ !@#$ !@#$ !@#$ !@#$

Later
LonZo

The oil filter housing on the 735 block is crushed. Can I use the housing from the 535 engine, and mount it to the 735 block?

People have been doing the opposite, mounting the later b35 housing on the b34 block (it makes for cleaner filter changes apparently) for some time now. I would imagine functionally it works just fine, just make sure there are no clearance issues with having the canister facing the other way.

Also, note that the b35 engine has 9:1 compression compared to the b34's 8:1. If you want to run big boost, the b34 bottom end with the b35 head is the way to go, as that combo will yield something around 7.8:1 compression.

What're you planning for a turbo setup? What exactly are you doing to "build" the motor for forced induction? Note that most of us here just bolt the turbo onto stock engines, they seem to be very solidly built and don't mind.

Welcome aboard, keep us posted.

Jeremy

IMPORTANT: If you use the E28 M30B34 downward-pointing filter housing on an M30B35 block, you MUST block off a hole that goes from the "cavity" at the block side of the filter mount directly back into the crankcase. This hole is where the the oil from the upward-pointing canister drains when the lid bolt is removed. If you don't plug this hole (10mm x 1.25 thread, IIRC), the majority of your oil will take the path of least resistance -- right back to the crankcase.

NOTE: There is an E24 M30B35 downward-pointing filter housing that you could use that doesn't require blocking the hole (it has a web that blocks off that side of the cavity), but it's easier just to use the one you have.

What're you planning for a turbo setup? What exactly are you doing to "build" the motor for forced induction? Note that most of us here just bolt the turbo onto stock engines, they seem to be very solidly built and don't mind.

Welcome aboard, keep us posted.

Jeremy

Thanks for the welcome.

Yes, I have heard of many using the B35 head, and added them to the B34 blocks, with good sucess. Also have heard of people using old worn out engines, and adding a turbo, and running the car, until it breaks.

I was actually wanting to build, or lets say for a better word, rebuild an engine. Stock internals, except for Ross 8.5:1 Pistons. Adding all new stock parts. My concern was, if I was going to do it, I was going to do it right. Plus I have these 2 engines on the floor to choose to rebuild from. I wanted something also reliable, and built to last longer, than a tired old worn out 150k mile engine.

The B35 engine is in good shape, still with stock 9.1 pistons. I could just add new bearings and use this block. Or just add the custom pistons, and just have the block honed. Or, with the B34 block, it had a piston freeze up in the block. It would need boring out, and also need new pistons. So the B34 535 block would need more work.

I have an exhooassed manifold in mind. I know there are kits out there for these engines, but will be going it alone. Maybe use the MSD 6BTM for spark and retard. Might use the Saab APC to control boost. Might be using the MegaSquirt. 50lb injectors. Intake 255lph Pump. FMIC. 3" exhaust. Boost from 12 to 16. Then try boosting to 20psi if all things are a go. Of course be at a dyno and get tuned correctly. Just getting started. So everything is in the works.

Currently have a MasterPower T62. O trim turbine at .69 A/R and a .70 A/R Comp. I got a deal on it, at $485 new. It might be a bit overkill, but it will work great. I wanted a T04E with 60Trim, but the T62 was a good deal.

Thanks for the advice. I'll check into the E24 Filter housing.

LonZp

Sounds like a good plan but that O trim turbine is small for the type of power you plan to make. It'll work but a P trim would have been more suitable.
Todd