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Oil return bung location?
Posted: May 11, 2006 11:06 AM
by terrybpp
It seems that tapping the oil return line into the oil pan on the exhaust (passenger) side will interfere with the baffling and be a tad low maybe causing some backflow. This was discussed on another site and the concensus seems to be that the block should be tapped about a 1" above the oil pan. Anyone confrim this or a better option?
Re: Oil return bung location?
Posted: May 11, 2006 11:28 AM
by T_C_D
terrybpp wrote:It seems that tapping the oil return line into the oil pan on the exhaust (passenger) side will interfere with the baffling and be a tad low maybe causing some backflow. This was discussed on another site and the concensus seems to be that the block should be tapped about a 1" above the oil pan. Anyone confrim this or a better option?
The other site is offering you dubious advice. Above the baffle but in the oil pan is fine.
Todd
Re: Oil return bung location?
Posted: May 11, 2006 11:55 PM
by russc
terrybpp wrote:It seems that tapping the oil return line into the oil pan on the exhaust (passenger) side will interfere with the baffling and be a tad low maybe causing some backflow. This was discussed on another site and the concensus seems to be that the block should be tapped about a 1" above the oil pan. Anyone confrim this or a better option?
Dinans system taps the block like you say. The specs are in their documentation. We just did a block tap on my b35 block.
http://arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devic ... -176-1.pdf
As Todd said, the pan is OK also.
RussC
Posted: May 12, 2006 9:54 AM
by Tjn182
i tapped mine on the little "knotch" on the block - took a heafty drill bit and an hour or two of drilling to get through the cast iron - but it's a clean job.
Posted: May 12, 2006 9:56 AM
by T_C_D
Tjn182 wrote:i tapped mine on the little "knotch" on the block - took a heafty drill bit and an hour or two of drilling to get through the cast iron - but it's a clean job.
Cast iron is really soft. It only took me ~1 minute with a good bit.
Todd
Posted: May 12, 2006 10:59 AM
by Boru
Tj, make sure you have the pointy end of the drill bit against the material being drill....
Posted: May 12, 2006 11:19 AM
by Tjn182
my drill wasn't exactly that powerful either, kept getting stuck.... my knuckles were bleeding when I was done because it would get stuck and fling my fist against the engine.
so pish posh
Posted: May 14, 2006 10:06 AM
by papajetta
i have a e34 w 745 setup
i regret tapping my block. b35 block has a flat spot that looked like the perfect place for a fitting ( like the b34 block )
results after i was drilling pretty deep i was drilling into 1/2 of the main crank cap support !
at the end i had to tap into the block on a 45 degree angle away from the main cap.....
leaked for a while so i had to use epoxy to seal around the fitting...
at the end i dont know if the oil pan is too thin to tap but i will definetly NOT tap my block next time
Posted: May 16, 2006 7:26 AM
by terrybpp
I ended up drilling & tapping the blank area with a with a 10 AN fitting. No clearence issues and great drain angle. Thanks guys.
BTW: only took about 30 mins to thread the hole and if you have ever had a leaky drain then you will know its worth it.