M535i Kompressor Project
Posted: Jun 23, 2006 12:33 AM
As you may have guessed from the title I intend to supercharge my M535i. I have been thinking about doing a supercharged BMW project for years, initially with my E30 325i and now with the M535i. The actual details are still in the conceptual phase right now. But I am about to get things rolling with initial parts procurement and getting my spare M30 installed under the house to use for testing and building up parts on. So it’s time I put this out there and get some ideas floating around.
Here are some thoughts that I’ve had so far, in no particular order.
Type of supercharger
The supercharged BMW projects that I’ve heard of have all used centrifugal compressors. These are good for lots of top end boost and power, and would be great for a track car. However I’m intending to maintain my car as a daily driver and as such I’m more interested in low-mid range torque and power. This leads me towards a fixed displacement type compressor.
Ideally I’d like a twin screw type because of their high efficiency and compact dimensions – something like the Autorotor 3150 would be great. But they’re not readily available second hand and a new one would be beyond my means, so that’s ruled out. So I’m thinking of an Eaton M90. There are plenty of them around since they’re used on the supercharged GM V6.
Power output goals
Some preliminary back-of-the-envelope calculations suggest that with good intercooling 300 bhp is quite realistic. I’m not aiming for stratospheric power figures here because it’s got to be driven daily and I’m not planning on a full rebuild of the base engine so I don’t want to over stress the bottom end.
Intercooling
This will be required to make the desired power output. At the moment my thoughts centre around what type to use and where to put it. Air-to-air would be possible but the question is then where to put it? With a front-mount setup there is a lot of piping to be done which equals increased airflow resistance. There is also the consideration that with a fixed displacement compressor the throttle is conventionally placed at the compressor inlet, meaning that a front mounted air-to-air intercooler setup would have a large throttled volume and therefore may have unacceptably poor throttle response.
So if I were to go the air-to-air route I’d want to fit the intercooler on top of the engine as close to the compressor outlet and inlet plenum as possible. This would require a bonnet scoop along the lines of a Subaru WRX. I think that this could be made workable from a functional viewpoint – but how would this affect the aesthetics? On an E28 it would either look very cool or very stupid and right now I’m not sure which!
An air-to-water setup would seem to be the better way to go. The intercooler can be mounted with the minimum possible air piping and the heat exchanger(s) mounted remotely. Several heat exchangers could be mounted at various locations in the front end such as in the standard brake ducts and immediately behind the centre grill. I could also remove the fog lamps and maybe combine with the brake ducts to allow decent sized units to be fitted here.
The obvious downside with air-to-water is the increased weight over air-to-air. This would be especially bad if I were to mount the heat exchangers up front – don’t want any more front end weight. Are there options for mounting in other locations, possibly with forced air flow to assist cooling? Hmmm.
Compressor Drive
There is not a great deal of room at the front of the engine in standard form and some re-engineering will be required here. If I were to leave the existing drive pulleys and belts in place and fit the compressor drive pulley at the very front this would necessitate removal of the standard cooling fan to give the compressor drive belt clearance. I guess that’s not a major thing. I’d then replace the standard electric fan with one or more high-volume fans. The water pump could be left in place without the viscous coupling and fan.
Throttle Placement
Conventional wisdom says that with a fixed displacement compressor you have the throttle at the compressor inlet and use a vacuum actuated bypass valve to control unwanted boost at low engine loads. The problem I have with this is that you have a much larger throttled volume (compressor, intercooler, plenum plus whatever interconnecting pipe work there is). You wouldn’t know until testing time whether the throttle response were acceptable or not, by which stage it’d be a major job to re-engineer things.
Right now I have an idea to leave the throttle in the stock location and blow into it. For compressor bypass I’d build a solid linkage system that would set the bypass valve fully open at idle and gradually close it as the throttle were increased. To avoid having boost under cruise conditions it could be made so that the mechanical linkage doesn’t engage and start closing the bypass until say 1/4 or 1/3 throttle or something. I’d work that out in testing.
I’ve done zero research on this aspect, it’s just as idea at this stage. Thoughts? Is this workable?
Electrical Load
With the extra electrical load (a couple of fans for engine cooling and maybe a couple for heat exchanger cooling) will the standard alternator be up to the job? And if I fit a larger alternator will I drive it of the existing pulley or together with the compressor? Hmmm.
Fuel System and Engine Management
I’m sure I can keep the fuel rail and maybe even the stock fuel pump and injectors – testing will tell. An adjustable FPR would probably be a good idea though. As far as the electronics are concerned I’ve pretty much discounted the idea of even trying to make this work with the Motronic system. At the moment I’m thinking of a Haltech E8. It seems to do everything I’d need it to do and I’ve had a play with the software, which looks very user friendly compared to others that I’ve seen
I would ditch the AFM and use a 2 bar MAP sensor. Standard pulse pickups and ignition would remain.
Base Engine
The engine is currently in standard tune with 250k under the belt. The bottom end is original and the head was rebuilt ~10k ago with a mild port’n’polish job. Inspection has shown that the engine is very tight and generally in great shape so I don’t intend to do a rebuild straight up. I would check the oil pressure and fit a new pump if this were in any way less than optimum, otherwise the engine will be left alone.
Driveline and Brakes
I haven’t given much thought yet what to do with the driveline, if anything. It’s got the 265 (C/R) box and standard clutch. I’d probably keep this initially and when the clutch goes I’d replace with an overdrive box and M5 clutch. I think that with the increased torque an overdrive would be the way to go for relaxed cruising. What else in the driveline do a need to look at? Possibly diff ratio, and I know the LSD is on the way out so that’d get rebuilt at some point.
I already have rebuilt E32 brakes on the front. When the rears need pads and rotors I’d do the E32/E34 conversion. I think that this should be more than adequate for a street car.
Summary
So here’s where I’m at now. I’ve just moved into a place where I have heaps of room under the house to fill up with cars and tools and junk. I’m getting the spare car (85 535i auto) brought over tomorrow. The plan is that I’ll rip out the engine and transmission and mount the engine downstairs. I can then use this as a base for fabricating parts and fitting them up, and I’d still have the M535i in one piece to check engine-to-body clearances and the like. I plan to acquire a compressor asap and will be getting straight into getting it mounted up on the spare engine. Everything else will follow from there.
So that’s it guys. What do you think? Am I crazy? Who dares me to build this thing?!
Here are some thoughts that I’ve had so far, in no particular order.
Type of supercharger
The supercharged BMW projects that I’ve heard of have all used centrifugal compressors. These are good for lots of top end boost and power, and would be great for a track car. However I’m intending to maintain my car as a daily driver and as such I’m more interested in low-mid range torque and power. This leads me towards a fixed displacement type compressor.
Ideally I’d like a twin screw type because of their high efficiency and compact dimensions – something like the Autorotor 3150 would be great. But they’re not readily available second hand and a new one would be beyond my means, so that’s ruled out. So I’m thinking of an Eaton M90. There are plenty of them around since they’re used on the supercharged GM V6.
Power output goals
Some preliminary back-of-the-envelope calculations suggest that with good intercooling 300 bhp is quite realistic. I’m not aiming for stratospheric power figures here because it’s got to be driven daily and I’m not planning on a full rebuild of the base engine so I don’t want to over stress the bottom end.
Intercooling
This will be required to make the desired power output. At the moment my thoughts centre around what type to use and where to put it. Air-to-air would be possible but the question is then where to put it? With a front-mount setup there is a lot of piping to be done which equals increased airflow resistance. There is also the consideration that with a fixed displacement compressor the throttle is conventionally placed at the compressor inlet, meaning that a front mounted air-to-air intercooler setup would have a large throttled volume and therefore may have unacceptably poor throttle response.
So if I were to go the air-to-air route I’d want to fit the intercooler on top of the engine as close to the compressor outlet and inlet plenum as possible. This would require a bonnet scoop along the lines of a Subaru WRX. I think that this could be made workable from a functional viewpoint – but how would this affect the aesthetics? On an E28 it would either look very cool or very stupid and right now I’m not sure which!
An air-to-water setup would seem to be the better way to go. The intercooler can be mounted with the minimum possible air piping and the heat exchanger(s) mounted remotely. Several heat exchangers could be mounted at various locations in the front end such as in the standard brake ducts and immediately behind the centre grill. I could also remove the fog lamps and maybe combine with the brake ducts to allow decent sized units to be fitted here.
The obvious downside with air-to-water is the increased weight over air-to-air. This would be especially bad if I were to mount the heat exchangers up front – don’t want any more front end weight. Are there options for mounting in other locations, possibly with forced air flow to assist cooling? Hmmm.
Compressor Drive
There is not a great deal of room at the front of the engine in standard form and some re-engineering will be required here. If I were to leave the existing drive pulleys and belts in place and fit the compressor drive pulley at the very front this would necessitate removal of the standard cooling fan to give the compressor drive belt clearance. I guess that’s not a major thing. I’d then replace the standard electric fan with one or more high-volume fans. The water pump could be left in place without the viscous coupling and fan.
Throttle Placement
Conventional wisdom says that with a fixed displacement compressor you have the throttle at the compressor inlet and use a vacuum actuated bypass valve to control unwanted boost at low engine loads. The problem I have with this is that you have a much larger throttled volume (compressor, intercooler, plenum plus whatever interconnecting pipe work there is). You wouldn’t know until testing time whether the throttle response were acceptable or not, by which stage it’d be a major job to re-engineer things.
Right now I have an idea to leave the throttle in the stock location and blow into it. For compressor bypass I’d build a solid linkage system that would set the bypass valve fully open at idle and gradually close it as the throttle were increased. To avoid having boost under cruise conditions it could be made so that the mechanical linkage doesn’t engage and start closing the bypass until say 1/4 or 1/3 throttle or something. I’d work that out in testing.
I’ve done zero research on this aspect, it’s just as idea at this stage. Thoughts? Is this workable?
Electrical Load
With the extra electrical load (a couple of fans for engine cooling and maybe a couple for heat exchanger cooling) will the standard alternator be up to the job? And if I fit a larger alternator will I drive it of the existing pulley or together with the compressor? Hmmm.
Fuel System and Engine Management
I’m sure I can keep the fuel rail and maybe even the stock fuel pump and injectors – testing will tell. An adjustable FPR would probably be a good idea though. As far as the electronics are concerned I’ve pretty much discounted the idea of even trying to make this work with the Motronic system. At the moment I’m thinking of a Haltech E8. It seems to do everything I’d need it to do and I’ve had a play with the software, which looks very user friendly compared to others that I’ve seen
I would ditch the AFM and use a 2 bar MAP sensor. Standard pulse pickups and ignition would remain.
Base Engine
The engine is currently in standard tune with 250k under the belt. The bottom end is original and the head was rebuilt ~10k ago with a mild port’n’polish job. Inspection has shown that the engine is very tight and generally in great shape so I don’t intend to do a rebuild straight up. I would check the oil pressure and fit a new pump if this were in any way less than optimum, otherwise the engine will be left alone.
Driveline and Brakes
I haven’t given much thought yet what to do with the driveline, if anything. It’s got the 265 (C/R) box and standard clutch. I’d probably keep this initially and when the clutch goes I’d replace with an overdrive box and M5 clutch. I think that with the increased torque an overdrive would be the way to go for relaxed cruising. What else in the driveline do a need to look at? Possibly diff ratio, and I know the LSD is on the way out so that’d get rebuilt at some point.
I already have rebuilt E32 brakes on the front. When the rears need pads and rotors I’d do the E32/E34 conversion. I think that this should be more than adequate for a street car.
Summary
So here’s where I’m at now. I’ve just moved into a place where I have heaps of room under the house to fill up with cars and tools and junk. I’m getting the spare car (85 535i auto) brought over tomorrow. The plan is that I’ll rip out the engine and transmission and mount the engine downstairs. I can then use this as a base for fabricating parts and fitting them up, and I’d still have the M535i in one piece to check engine-to-body clearances and the like. I plan to acquire a compressor asap and will be getting straight into getting it mounted up on the spare engine. Everything else will follow from there.
So that’s it guys. What do you think? Am I crazy? Who dares me to build this thing?!