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So now that I have a manifold to work with I am trying to decide upon a turbo. My thoughts are;

GT3582R. This with an on center turbine housing T4 flange A/R .58 68mm wheel 84 trim. Compressor is A/R .70 82mm wheel 56 trim. This would be my first choice. I am also a fan of the water cooled BB housing.

60-1. This was my other potential choice using a T4 flange. I really don't have any interest in making an adapter so that I can use a T3 turbine. I have seen a watercooled BB version of this turbo as well. This one uses a T4 turbine wheel P/trim .70 A/R. Compressor A/R .70.

Anything else I am overlooking?

R2-D2 10-4 24-7-365??? I'm so easily entertained!

GregATL wrote:So now that I have a manifold to work with I am trying to decide upon a turbo. My thoughts are;

GT3582R. This with an on center turbine housing T4 flange A/R .58 68mm wheel 84 trim. Compressor is A/R .70 82mm wheel 56 trim. This would be my first choice. I am also a fan of the water cooled BB housing.

60-1. This was my other potential choice using a T4 flange. I really don't have any interest in making an adapter so that I can use a T3 turbine. I have seen a watercooled BB version of this turbo as well. This one uses a T4 turbine wheel P/trim .70 A/R. Compressor A/R .70.

Anything else I am overlooking?

You need to state your engine setup, rwhp goals, and boost level before anyone could intelligently give you any input.

Todd

Engine setup;

M30 B34 with B35 head.
B35 intake manifold
MLS head gasket
7.4:1 compression ratio
Leaning towards TCD intercooler
Stand alone engine management (MS, tec3, motec, haltech)

Power goals are 350+ rwhp, 400+rwtq.

I intend to overbuild so that I can go up from there. I would like to see 500 rwhp eventually but figure I should learn the motor and car at a lower output first. Before I try to get more than 350 rwhp out of it I plan to go through the engine completely.

My primary use for this car is a driver. Probably not daily but certainly frequently.

To answer the obvious next question, Why don't I just get a TCD setup? I know it would be easier and cheaper and perform just as well as what I'm doing. I am doing this because it is something I personally have been wanting to do for years. I just haven't had the means to start until now.

I guess this means I'm on my own.

Man... If you are going to get one or the other, I would do something different from everyone else and get that GT35R -- lets see what an M30 can push out with one of those suckers (I mean blowers.... well you know)

Tjn182 wrote:Man... If you are going to get one or the other, I would do something different from everyone else and get that GT35R -- lets see what an M30 can push out with one of those suckers (I mean blowers.... well you know)

That’s what I have on my car....a GT35R compressor. Yes, the M106 can easily spin it. As far as HP..............more to follow.

GregATL - I would go to the BimmerForums Forced Induction site - Click Here

Do a search and then start asking questions. There is a lot more knowledge. We are just getting started with FI on this board and the knowledge base is not that developed yet.

the 60-1 turbo is perfect for 350 rwhp but if you want 500 rwhp some day, you should get the gt35r and it's probably a good idea to revise that compression ratio before you start building.

Thanks for your suggestions. The 60-1 I am considering has a ball bearing housing as well. My concern is that it is going to spool too slowly versus the GT35R.

As to my compression ratio. I am not going to tear my engine down right now no matter what. I am willing to run it in a somewhat less than ideal setup initially. This is why I am only shooting for 350 rwhp initially. There will be a second generation when the time is correct. That is when I'll go for broke($ literally).

As of last night I decided to go with the Haltech E11v2. I friend of mine is their local rep and he owes me for a van he got from me. So no cash outlay will be necessary for the unit(thank god). Also he will be able to assist in any troubleshooting issues that may arise.

That is where I am at currently.

come over, or call me and i can hopefully come help you if ya need.

Hi names david. i purchase TCD t4 60-1 and boost is at mid rpm range and perfect for daily driver ,I have it at 8psi and havn't hit dyno but it fells plenty dangerous

Our T04e-60 non ball bearing turbo made 17.5psi at 3000rpm on the dyno. No need for a BB turbo with a proper setup.
Todd

GregATL wrote:Thanks for your suggestions. The 60-1 I am considering has a ball bearing housing as well. My concern is that it is going to spool too slowly versus the GT35R.

As to my compression ratio. I am not going to tear my engine down right now no matter what. I am willing to run it in a somewhat less than ideal setup initially. This is why I am only shooting for 350 rwhp initially. There will be a second generation when the time is correct. That is when I'll go for broke($ literally).

As of last night I decided to go with the Haltech E11v2. I friend of mine is their local rep and he owes me for a van he got from me. So no cash outlay will be necessary for the unit(thank god). Also he will be able to assist in any troubleshooting issues that may arise.

That is where I am at currently.

without actually looking, i'm under the impression that the gt35 is a bigger compressor than a 60-1, gt35 compressor = t04s... but todds right, the right setup doesnt need the ball bearings.

the e11 is a nice unit, i had one on my 3 rotor a couple years ago, and in the middle of doing another

mike

We supply a GT35R compressor wheel in a T4 frame with a T04E cover.
Todd

T_C_D wrote:Our T04e-60 non ball bearing turbo made 17.5psi at 3000rpm on the dyno. No need for a BB turbo with a proper setup.
Todd

That's a damn fine amount of boost for such a low rpm Todd. I will certainly consider that as a candidate.
You might think I'm stupid, crazy, or both but I intend to get a water cooled center section. The BB really aren't necessary as you say but I am not sure if I can get a water cooled turbo without them. The idea here is temperature regulation. I have an idea that I would like to try to this facilitates my plans.

j9fd3s, thanks for your input on the Haltech unit. Tell us more about your 3 rotor. I've owned 2 1st gen RX-7's and love the rotary engine.

T_C_D wrote:We supply a GT35R compressor wheel in a T4 frame with a T04E cover.
Todd

Thats what I have...................I find it easier to just say a GT35R.

Duke M535ti wrote:

T_C_D wrote:We supply a GT35R compressor wheel in a T4 frame with a T04E cover.
Todd

Thats what I have...................I find it easier to just say a GT35R.

how is that still a gt35? is it just the wheels and CHRA and then t04e housings? Aren't "gt" housings different or "better" in some way? or are they the same as any "run of the mill" turbo housing? So is the TCD "gt35r" a "hybrid" gt35r to fit around the requirements of the tcd kit/system?

I'm just a little confused

Flip_Side_the_Pint wrote:
how is that still a gt35? is it just the wheels and CHRA and then t04e housings? Aren't "gt" housings different or "better" in some way? or are they the same as any "run of the mill" turbo housing? So is the TCD "gt35r" a "hybrid" gt35r to fit around the requirements of the tcd kit/system?

I'm just a little confused

It's a GT35R compressor wheel in a T04E housing.

Todd

GregATL wrote:

T_C_D wrote:Our T04e-60 non ball bearing turbo made 17.5psi at 3000rpm on the dyno. No need for a BB turbo with a proper setup.
Todd

That's a damn fine amount of boost for such a low rpm Todd. I will certainly consider that as a candidate.
You might think I'm stupid, crazy, or both but I intend to get a water cooled center section. The BB really aren't necessary as you say but I am not sure if I can get a water cooled turbo without them. The idea here is temperature regulation. I have an idea that I would like to try to this facilitates my plans.

j9fd3s, thanks for your input on the Haltech unit. Tell us more about your 3 rotor. I've owned 2 1st gen RX-7's and love the rotary engine.

i'll have to dig up some pics, but in 2001 my 1988 rx7 got broken into, and instead of putting it back together stock, decided to put the 3 rotor in there. for those who dont know, every us car is a 2 rotor, but in japan they had a competitor to the lexus SC, the cosmo. with a 3rd rotor.

the 3rd rotor does a bunch of things, its smoother, torquey, and sounds like a pissed off v12....

i had it running an e11 v2, while there were a couple of bugs with it, it would start and run like a stock car. i had an e6k initially, but going to the sequential injection really made a big difference.