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Megasquirt Ignition on Stock Sensors

Posted: Nov 23, 2006 10:34 PM
by cafcwest
Hi,
I'm looking for some information on using the stock sensors for MSnS instead of converting to a 60-2 wheel/pickup.

If anyone knows of one, a link to someone's writeup would be greatly appreciated (instead of badgering with question after question)
Thanks,
-Jayson

Posted: Nov 23, 2006 11:06 PM
by davidu
Search for megasquirt you'll find it ,I thinks topic is by duke. I had to read several times.

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 9:02 AM
by cafcwest
Believe it or not, some people actually believe in search before post. I wouldn't have wasted people's time if I had been able to find such information for myself.

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 12:21 PM
by Shawn D.
cafcwest wrote:Believe it or not, some people actually believe in search before post. I wouldn't have wasted people's time if I had been able to find such information for myself.
Well, many people do ask before bothering with a search -- this shouldn't be news to anyone who frequents forums. The question wouldn't have been asked if you'd said something like "I've searched the archives and couldn't find info on..." to let folks know you'd done so.

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 12:36 PM
by Duke
I am not expert on MS or much of anything really. You may be able to use the H2O sensor, TBS (E34 auto). You will have to install a MAP sensor (way easy) and a 60-2 wheel on the crank (also way easy off of an E34) and the sensor for said wheel.
I would also install a wide band O2 sensor.
Here is a picture of the one I installed with a custom bracket for the sensor bought from The Power Plant in NC. -


Image

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 1:28 PM
by M635CSi
Duke M535ti wrote:I am not expert on MS or much of anything really. You may be able to use the O2 sensor, TBS (E34 auto). You will have to install a MAP sensor (way easy) and a 60-2 wheel on the crank (also way easy off of an E34) and the sensor for said wheel.

Here is a picture of the one I installed with a custom bracket for the sensor bought from The Power Plant in NC. -


Image
Duke, thanks for the tip about The Power Plant in NC having a bracket for the crank sensor - you saved me some time and effort.

I see from the picture you're also trying a new approach to lowering intake air temperature, let us know how it works out!

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 2:49 PM
by russc
I covered this topic a while back, and gave the info you need to use the stock sensors for ingnition timing. You would have to do some research yourself and some building and experimentation on it though. The link:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=19095

Read this thread carefully and go to MS site to do the research.

RussC

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 4:22 PM
by Duke
I see from the picture you're also trying a new approach to lowering intake air temperature, let us know how it works out!
That’s an old pic. I have re-shaped the intake tube. It is a much more direct run to the turbo with only two small bends now. I covered the new tube with the same insulation TCD uses for his CAB and then wrapped the tube with a heat shield "sock" so to speak. Look great and I know that no engine compartment heat is contributing to AITs.

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 8:18 PM
by cafcwest
thank you all for all the non "search you stupid n00b" replies

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 8:25 PM
by Kyle in NO
Duke, I think he was talking about the fact that it was sitting in a snow drift!

Posted: Nov 24, 2006 9:02 PM
by M635CSi
Kyle in NO wrote:Duke, I think he was talking about the fact that it was sitting in a snow drift!
;)

Posted: Nov 25, 2006 9:25 AM
by Shawn D.
cafcwest wrote:thank you all for all the non "search you stupid n00b" replies
Note that there was not a single "search you stupid n00b" reply in this thread whatsoever -- you're just being too sensitive.

-Shawn (now expecting to see a nearly-inevitable "If you don't have any info related to the question, don't respond..." type of comment)

Posted: Nov 25, 2006 9:33 AM
by cafcwest
now expecting to see a nearly-inevitable "If you don't have any info related to the question, don't respond..." type of comment

Posted: Nov 29, 2006 12:08 AM
by GregATL
cafcwest wrote:now expecting to see a nearly-inevitable "If you don't have any info related to the question, don't respond..." type of comment
Well if you insist :alright: Oh wait, that would make me a hypocrite wouldn't it? :D

Posted: Nov 29, 2006 7:09 PM
by Skeen
Back to the topic at hand, you can use the stock H2O sensor and there's a pretty common Bosch TPS that you can buy new for ~$50 or find one off a Volvo (and some other stuff). PN: 0280 122 001. Look to GM for the IAT.

Posted: Nov 30, 2006 11:54 AM
by altus22
You can use the stock IAT sensor. Peter took the sensor out of the AFM and mounted it to a tube in his intake tract. The TPS from Hyundai and Kia can also be used as they are much more common. Take an ohmeter with you to the yard to verify it is a pot and not switches.

edit: Thanks Shawn.

Posted: Nov 30, 2006 11:55 AM
by Shawn D.
altus22 wrote:... intake tract.
... intake tract.

Posted: Dec 04, 2006 11:00 PM
by FirstFives Dictator
russc wrote:I covered this topic a while back, and gave the info you need to use the stock sensors for ingnition timing. You would have to do some research yourself and some building and experimentation on it though. The link:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=19095

Read this thread carefully and go to MS site to do the research.

RussC
Text from the above linked post;
The way I see it is to combine the two signals with the circuit on wheel2.htm page then use a divide by 2 CMOS circuit and go in the the U4 pin 6 input.
Problem is the flywheel teeth /2 don't provide a # that is evenly divisible by 3. Which the MS wheel decoder needs for a 6 cylinder car. :x

I've played around with some Motronic 1.0 external decoding hardware on the bench (PIC based) but decided it wasn't worth the effort when the 60-2 wheel worked so well.

Posted: Dec 11, 2006 10:26 PM
by cafcwest
FirstFives Dictator wrote: Text from the above linked post;
The way I see it is to combine the two signals with the circuit on wheel2.htm page then use a divide by 2 CMOS circuit and go in the the U4 pin 6 input.
Problem is the flywheel teeth /2 don't provide a # that is evenly divisible by 3. Which the MS wheel decoder needs for a 6 cylinder car. :x

I've played around with some Motronic 1.0 external decoding hardware on the bench (PIC based) but decided it wasn't worth the effort when the 60-2 wheel worked so well.
Peter,
Yeah, I've pretty much decided that the 60-2 wheel is going to be the easiest route - especially since I just got an entire B35 at a good price. Now all I've got to do is get that big flipping nut off it :)
-Jayson

Posted: Dec 12, 2006 6:16 AM
by FirstFives Dictator
cafcwest wrote: Now all I've got to do is get that big flipping nut off it :)
-Jayson
Why?
I installed the b35 harmonic balancer on the b34 hub.
Just 8 smaller bolts for balancer and pulleys

:)

Now it is a good idea to change front seal and in that case... :x

Posted: Dec 12, 2006 9:14 PM
by cafcwest
FirstFives Dictator wrote:
cafcwest wrote: Now all I've got to do is get that big flipping nut off it :)
-Jayson
Why?
I installed the b35 harmonic balancer on the b34 hub.
Just 8 smaller bolts for balancer and pulleys

:)

Now it is a good idea to change front seal and in that case... :x
Are you for real!?!!

If so, and by saying that I mean not having to take that big stinking nut off to remove the toothed wheel off the B34 and install on my B34, that is the BEST NEWS OF THE WEEK!