Lucifer's Hammer Part 11
Posted: Jan 15, 2007 9:53 PM
Lucifer's Hammer Series Index: Part 1 • Part 2 • Part 3 • Part 4 • Part 5 • Part 6 • Part 7 • Part 8 • Part 9 • Part 10 • Part 11 • Part 12 • Part 13 • Part 14 • Photos
Just because it has come off the dyno doesn't mean it's done. The "punch list" just seems to get longer . . . .
4/8-16/06 Car washed (first time in nearly 3 years !), polished and waxed. Boy am I ever glad I have waxed the snot out of this thing in the past. Water would still bead once I got the dust, bird shit and mung off of it.
Another jar of Hyde Fude disappears into the leather. 
Paint took washing x 2, paint clay and orbital buffing with Machine Polish #3 
to get sufficient prep. Carnauba x 3 and the finish begins to look acceptable. It will take another 2 or 3 coats of wax to properly fill and seal. 
Yes, this did take the better part of a week of evenings plus a full weekend to get this far.
After the dyno pulls, the motor was ~1/2 quart low. Between assembly and completing the 4/7/06 pull series, the oil and filter had been changed 5 times; mileage covered roughly 1200 per the odo. This is both over-the-road and recorded mileage on the rollers. When filled from bone-dry, the motor took 7+ quarts to hit the full mark. Changes are taking a bit over 6 1/2. Combine this with some indications of oil burning at startup -- a few seconds of blue smoke, and the static level may be marginal for the oil level sender; the Check Engine Oil warning light coming on, even with oil at the Full mark. Added another 1/2 quart which seems to have stopped the problem. Note: the problem has reappeared, but let the motor run for a few minute to oil ~150 deg. F, shut down for a few minutes, then restart seems to solve the matter.
To throw more napalm on the oil selection fire, I used Kendall non-detergent straight 30-weight for the break-in and first 3 changes; new filter each time. Next 2 changes were with Kendall D-3 15W-40. This stuff was designed for diesels and off-road equipment. As such, it has a high zinc content additive pack. In other words, the EPA nazis frown on it's use for highway applications. The oil is dino, not synthetic. The game plan is changes at 3,000 mile intervals; less if boost is used much.
I've been told that when ExxonMobil went to the new product spread on Mobil 1, there were significant alterations in the additive package. Basically, the additives cost money and were reduced to increase profit margins. I have no experience with AmSoil or Redline's synthetics, so I am at a loss to choose a full synthetic when/as/if I switch over. Colorado Petroleum, the local Kendall distributor, tells me that ConocoPhillips (who now owns and produces Kendall lubricants), is taking heat over the additive pack, so D-3 may get reformulated. Same story on Shell's Rotella T. Input, anyone?
Item: Between installation of the TEC-3r and "OK, you're good to go," we tried 140 different BIN files. Each time a parameter was changed, or we received an update/patch/revision from Electromotive, it was entered as a discrete BIN file. This for reference purposes. I cannot provide the number of separate dyno pulls, but the number easily exceeds 300 between late August, 2005 and April 2006. Here. Smoke this.
4/27/06 To Bimmerhaus to deal with the A/C non-function, flush the power steering and a new PS filter. The A/C problem may stem from a non-functioning relay affecting compressor engagement. Dave noted the system has lost some refrigerant since it was topped up back in August. Most likely seals have dried out some, not having been used for nearly 3 years.
The problem was finally traced to a pinched wire (intermittent short) in the console feeding into the A/C temperature rheostat. EB had pulled the console when he installed Shawn D's gauge panel. It looks like the reinstall wasn't done with a whole lot of care. It took two of us the better part of a day to solve this one.
The "Check Engine Oil" light gremlin is baaaaack.
The issue may be with the sender itself being faulty; it is the original one to the car, so may have gotten tired after 18-19 years. Replaced. Dave sez the M30 and S38 sensors are known to get funky; the oil intake orofice is very small (< 1 mm), and can become clogged.
Note: the "Check Engine Oil" light coming on repeatedly was the initial push towards considering reworking the motor. This was in October of 2002. Something about the first pebble starting the avalanche . . . .
5/5/06 In the 200 miles or so since coming out of Mile High, there has been significant pulling to the right on braking. Temperature analysis on calipers/rotors shows things are OK there. Caliper pistons are OK after the caliper rebuild--nothing leaking or hanging up. Teardown of the RF strut reveals that the threaded end of the shock piston is not engaged in the strut body. Very low resistance to compression, nearly certain gas pressure loss. Not terribly surprising, as the Dinan-configured Billies have over 110,000 miles on them. BUT the strut appears to have beeen improperly reassembled at EB's, where the struts were torn down as part of the welding in of the external reinforcing bracket. (Do it ever quit??) When I picked up the car in August, 2004, the struts had been reinstalled as part of my request to have the car ready for loading and transport. Once back at Bimmerhaus, the BavAuto/K-Mac camber adjustment plates were installed, as were the strut-to-steering arm spacers, but disassembling the struts themselves was not undertaken. Anyway, both front inserts replaced with new Bilstein HDs. p/n P36-0243. These are the same ones as were part of the Dinan Stage 4 suspension package. Inspection of the springs shows these, at least, are OK. With the struts rebuilt, the pulling under braking goes away. 8)
The ABS light is coming on when the car begins forward motion (NOT at startup with the car at rest.) Possibility that one or both of the sensors was damaged when we removed the struts. The sensors are known to be somewhat fragile. These are the original units and the plastic housing may have become brittle over time. Erratic electrical resistance on the LF. Both sensors replaced. Problem resolved.
5/17/06 Time to try this puppy out. Business trip to Grand Junction and back to Denver via I-70 and some secondary roads. Coolant temp ~205 deg F, oil temp showing ~230 deg. F when stuck in delayed traffic at the Eisenhower Tunnel (11,000 ft). Overheating goes away once we are moving again -- coolant down to 170 or so, oil at 210. In other words, normal, but it serves to emphasize the 7-inch auxiliary fan is pretty marginal for cooling in heavy traffic. Freeway mileage at 70-75+ cruise, 20.2. Secondary roads back to Denver, 19.1. Some driving under boost, but lots of traffic and low speeds. When circumstances require, other vehicles on the road can be treated as stationary objects. Mmmwuhahahahahaha.
Acceleration from cruising speeds is. . . .stupefying. 
5/27/06 The clutch engagement problem seems somewhat less as I put more miles on it. I don't know if this is due to my becoming more familiar with the engagement point, or if the metallic friction pucks have become somewhat worn or broken in and have a measure of slippage. No signs of "free-revving" under load at this point, but no aggressive shifting or drag-type starts either.
Paint is still freely taking on wax. This is coat #4 since mid-April. Another Hide Food application; absorbed readily, especially on the dash. The fact that the lanolin has gone in so easily is some testimony of how dried out the leather had become. Looks nearly like new though.
6/4/06 Rocky Mountain Cerebral Palsy Foundation Concours. You show me yours and I'll show you mine.
So the whip gets to attend the local Looky-Me party.
Kind of like a dressage. Dressage: A bunch of horses showing their asses to a bunch of horse's asses.
OK. The Summer Lawn Party and Toy Showing has gone off. Great turnout by the various marques, plus lots of custom American Iron. Excellent attendance by the paying pubelick,
which is wonderful for the Cerebral Palsy Foundation. Only downside is that for some of the marques, the more interesting/unusual examples weren't there. E.g., for BMW no 2002s or CS coupes. For Ferrari, no older models -- 250 Lusso, Superamericas, or early roadsters. Very few early Corvettes. I meant to get over to get some shots of the rods, but regretfully, that didn't happen.
I didn't get to do much wandering around. I spent nearly all day answering questions related to That Thing.
Answers to the most frequently asked questions, (mentioned in Part 1):
1. Yes, I have.
2. No, you may not.
3. Occasionally, under the right circumstances.
4. Less than I'd like to.
5. Much more than I should have.
6. Is the bear Catholic?
7. Only under a grant of immunity.
8. Enough to get you charged with a felony in the State of Mississippi.
9. If I can pick the road.
10. Bring it, Homes.
As a result of much pimping, I agreed to enter That Thing in the "Judged" category. This is a 3/4 speed concours-type evaluation. The judges have some serious problems that need Professional Help. I mean inspection with a Q-tip of alternator armatures to see if there is dirt??? Oh, Please.
Much to my astonishment, That Thing (LH) comes away with a bright yellow ribbon. My lump has been selected as"Judges Favorite, Best of Marque,"
despite having been marked off severely for having pits in the windshield, sun fading of the package shelf, and the fact it has actually been driven.
Oh, the horror !! My receiving this prize totally infuriated the Gorgon who is the editor of the Chapter's monthly toilet roll. Third parties later informed me she had guaranteed this bauble to another owner in the RM Chapter . . .
The RM Chapter is a mixed bag, as the following list would seem to infer.
KH smartass remarques re. BMWCCA. Posted on the board recently.
Are you a BMWCCA Member? Why? Why not?
1. Yes, I am. This line stolen from an AA meeting.
2. Because I can get into the brie and chardonnay at the debutante parties (oops, Chapter meetings). This may or may not be better than the Velveeta and Old Milwaukee Light offered at the Front Range Corvette Owners gatherings (klaverns?)
3. The CCA discount brings parts prices down to only retail plus 15% at the stealer.
4. Copies of "Roundel" show more class in the can than "Lowrider" magazine.
5. I receive more junk mail offering me credit cards or offers to refinance my mortgage or get a home equity line of credit.
6. I can post the membership sticker on the rear window of my SUV, right next to my NRA Life Member one.
7. I can show the membership card to the arresting officer along with my DL, registration and POI, and then tell him to FO, because I know more about driving than he does, having been through a few drivers schools.
8. It makes me feel priveleged, like a member of the Duke U. lacrosse team.
9. If I flash the card at the off-duty cops playing doorman at Denver's LoDo clubs, I am guaranteed immediate entry with no cover charge.
10. It makes my waste products smelleth not.
June/September/06 Doing various trips over the passes, the car shows a tendency to overheat in traffic. Water temps tend to creep up,over 205-210 deg. F. I have had the expansion tank overflowing, spraying coolant out the vent port. I park it and old people offer me a Depends . . . I suspect a bad fan clutch or weak seal on the expansion tank pressure cap.
November/06 Put away for the winter. I'll deal with the cooling issues in the Spring, along with getting the new software release from Electromotive. In the meantime, I will harass the boardlings.
I have been asked a number of times what this little fandango cost. A lot.
The question isn't all that easy to answer. Some of this is because it's hard to say where one project ended and another phase began. Does replacing the original cat-back exhaust with a UUC upgrade (which later got sold) get included? Do I roll in the Euro bumpers and lights? What about the Dinan Stage IV suspension that went in 17 years ago? Do I include a value on my time? What about the costs related to technical blind alleys?
In going over my "build book," shop records, statements, subcontractor invoices, etc. I can document a combined total just short of 750 hours labor. That is independent of my time spent doing research, parts chasing, and all of the related activities to allow the experts to focus on what they do best.
I think this number could be materially reduced if I was in a situation where I could have done the work out of my own garage. Space and tooling limitations, and I had a sense this was going to stretch out for a while. My bride was less than enthusiastic about the prospect.
If the project was to be repeated from scratch, knowing what I know now, I think the hours would come in around 350 to 400; the reduction coming from not having to do the R&D. If all the parts were to be purchased in "bulk" orders from the various sources, and not find surprises (tranny, repeat on the turbo), I think 20 to 25% could come off the total outlay. A lot of this would be due to not repeating technical blind alleys and getting a dollar volume break. This is independent of any potential CCA discounts. My pricing, BTW, was considerably under retail in many cases, and involved numerous suppliers where CCA did not apply.
The next section is not for the faint of heart, or those who are easily offended. If it gives you a case of the RA, TFB. Take a douche.
The following screed is an extract from some remarks I was going to make at FF5. Layton had asked me to do a presentation for the Tech Session on building a stroker motor. As matters turned out, I didn't go.
[Following section redacted on advice of counsel.]
"A few more remarks for the unwashed. RANT WARNING for you emotionally sensitive pinche pendejos. If you're not familiar with colloquial Mex Spanish, ask one of your Hispanic friends what these terms mean, or look it up in http://www.urbandictionary.com. Heh.
The last E28 went down in 1988. 17 years later and people whine about things wearing out and parts being NLA. Kwitcherbitchin.
In following the E28 boards (Roachfly, mye28.com, Bummerforums, m5board.com and others), I see an awful lot of people wanting to convert their baseline 5er into an M5 or some similar exercise. They also want to do it for no money.
Do this in a nasal twang and whiney tone of voice "Cuz I are a wannabe, I bought my 528e with 267K miles on it for $800. Somebody needs to give me their S38B35 with 40,000 miles on it. I need a new set of tires and rims. I are a stone broke hah skewl stewdent and cain't affowerd anathang." Excuse me. Bullshit. These cars, M-series especially, were never cheap. The 4-valve motors are race-derived and have always required special attention and care. The M-cars themselves cost around 50 Large when they were in production in the late 80's. Translated into current dollars, that's around $120 grand, depending on the rate of inflation one chooses to use. This is pretty rarefied atmosphere. Put it in perspective: March your delicate young ass down to your friendly BMW dealer and step right up for an E60 M5. If you cannot or will not spend the requisite effort and scratch to Do It Right, you have no business with these machines. Get a Honda and Get Over It. Your wallet and Significant Other will be grateful.
Frankly, I don't care what the squabbling infants of whatever chronological age on any of the BMW forums have to say. Trying to refurbish E28s (and M5s in particular) simply cannot be done on the cheap. This includes DIY. Not and expect top-quality results. My personal standards are aircraft-grade workmanship as an acceptable floor, and I expect reliability equal to that of a stone ax. This takes time and it ain't free. This applies in spades where FI is concerned. There IS some good work being done out there, but most of it is real cheese. A few people who post have some demonstrable engineering knowledge as basis for their input, but based on the posts I read, most of this rabble are technological half-wits."
There. I feel better now.
Rude, crude and settled in my ways, Politically Correct I ain't.
Don't take any of it personally. 
Cost overruns. Hoo boy. Have we got cost overruns.
The ferocious cost overruns can be traced to at least eight sources.
1. The original estimating, while appearing precise, was in fact very vague. The numbers were general at best for an NA motor; there was no link to reality for the turbo approach. What should have been asked for was a detailed item-by-item schedule of parts required along with p/n's. I could have run that schedule past my sources to see what kind of quote I could obtain. Hours quoted should have been cross-checked against the KSD or gone over with a dealer Service Manager for a reality check.
2. Written estimates should have been obtained from the subcontractors before any work was begun, including that by the engine builder. While this was original, one-off stuff and being done on a time and materials basis, order-of-magnitude figures should be available if the sub. had any knowledge of the business. That being stipulated, some ballpark information still should have been generated and run past me, the client.
3.Subcontractor and supplier invoices should have been sent through me for payment, or at a minimum, approval before payment.
4. Given the monies involved, I should have established an escrow account; disbursements against invoices and job tickets for hours directly applied to the job. In other words, proper management controls.
5. A specific contract should have been drawn up, stating time frames, obligations for both parties, performance criteria, and penalties for nonperformance. EB's balking at signing such a document would have been a major red flag. Overkill perhaps, but a sure-fire litmus test.
6. Not obtaining a list of at least four of EB's clients* who had major projects done within the last year. These players should have been contacted and asked for their opinion as to workmanship, timliness, and so on. Similar references for subcontractors. EB mentioned he had worked for a very prominent shop before going out on his own. I negliected to contact that shop and find out what their experience/opinion of EB was before I committed to his starting on the job. Their input came to light after I had already paid for the crank, valves, pistons, etc. and had delivered the car. I can't remember if I had discussed EB's work product with the owner of the prominent shop. I think I did when I was trying to get EB's phone #. In any case, I don't recall the owner's reaction.
7. Absence of photographic or other documentary evidence of progress over time, this despite repeated requests. I had to initiate nearly every status report inquiry. Had I not done so, I strongly believe the only feedback would have been at the stated completion date that things were behind schedule.
8. My reluctance to take the time/spend the money and do an eyes-on inspection (possibly unannounced) at a couple of intervals to determine progress. This wasn't done partly out of being cheap, but also my reluctance to micromanage.
I'm not sure what I would have done if I had found that nothing was being done. I hadn't done all the homework needed on possible alternatives in the Front Range, and the previously-mentioned sources were off the table for reasons outlined in earlier parts of this narrative. FWIW, when I did get some photos from another EB client in early July, 2004, one of them referenced work on his car in November, 2003. He provided a pic of my car, taken at that time. That photo appears to show no work having been done. This would mean that about five months had passed with little or no activity, approaching the first extended completion date, and sizable $ having been sent for labor.
*Four is something of an arbitrary number, but if a shop is serious about it's focus and generating business, production at or above that level means this is a full-time operation and not a hobby. "Four" in this case means soup-to-nuts engine builds, not just a valve job or some port work. One-man shops are always a question mark; the proprietor is often wearing too many hats to devote his attention to the job at hand, i.e., nose-down into the client's piece of work.
Now in a lighter vein,
In any complex project, there are three primary parameters which must be dealt with by the Project Manager:
Cost (or budget, if you will).
Specifications, or Performance Requirements.
Time to Completion, or a Delivery Deadline.
For any task, group of tasks, or for the exercise as a whole, only two of the above elements can be controlled. The third is an independent operator.
If Cost or budget is fixed, and the Completion Date is unalterable, Performance Requirements will be reduced or unmet.
With unchangeable Performance Requirements and a fixed budget, a Completion Date is unknowable.
If Specifications cannot be changed, and the Delivery Deadline is set in cement, Cost is indeterminate (and will invariably escalate).
Don't lie to me; you know I'm right.
A number of findings and observations.
There is no such thing as too much study and research. There is a vast amount of technical literature available on high-performance engines. Most of this does not require having anything beyond high school algebra. Read the material.
If you are near a college or university with an Engineering Department, find out if someone on the Mech. E. faculty will offer some advice or assistance. People are often very surprised and gratified that someone, on their own, has sought them out for their opinion, advice and expertise. I did this, and much to my astonishment, the rocket-builders (literally) got really excited about my endeavor.
Talk to as many engine builders as you can regarding what you have in mind. Do your homework before you ask for their time. Become as knowledgeable as possible, and reduce your questions to writing beforehand. This will focus your thinking and keep answers on-topic. Do NOT go in and ask, "How big a cam can I put on my M30?" Huh-huh-huh.
(Beavis accent)
As an aside here, there are quite a few shops across the country who advertise doing BMW motors. Very few of these have genuine expertise. Those that do charge accordingly.
Advertising claims are not the same as documented results. Talk to their clientele. They will give you names of clients, right? If not, run away . . .
Look at the undertaking as a collection of systems that have to work together. Read any and all literature from the manufacturers before you spend the money. It's not unheard-of that two items, each of which is regarded as the hot ticket, won't work together.
The part you require is NLA.
Lead times are invariably two to three times longer than what you are told.
You have less than half the money you will need.
Your schedule is not necessarily the shop or builder's schedule. People have a life.
Poor planning on your part does not constitute a crisis on my part.
"Inexpensive FI" is an oxymoron.
Your build will be different from my build.
It is 17 years old. It is worn out. Replace it. Get Over It.
Ask for help.
Remember, They are in it for the money. You are in it for the carnal knowledge.
Keep track of what you want to do, how you are planning on doing it, and what you actually did. By task, by day. This needs to go into a logbook. This includes part #s, supplier's names, addys and phone numbers. No such thing as too many pictures, along with explanatory captions or notations.
If you run across interesting topics, ideas or material that is only generally related to the project, write it down, scan it, put it in your 'Favorites' file, but save it, or how to reference it. Serendipity has potentially large payoffs.
If you do not have a digital cam with really good definition, get one. Sort of like having an accurate torque wrench.
Speaking of which, get a copy of the BMW Torque Tightening Manual and the TIS (Technical Specifications Manual). The latter has clearances, tolerances and so on. Every single fastener on our motors has a specified torque setting. BMW didn't just guess what "tight enough" means. There is a reason to follow their advice.
Cleanliness is Godliness during assembly. There is a reason surgeons scrub before procedures, and why the operative site is known as a "sterile field."
Beer is for after "tools down." not during.
When you are in my whip, turn off the fucking cell phone.
DO NOT USE KING SOOPERS TO DEVELOP FILM.
The logbook/blog/diary/whatever sounds really anal and it is time consuming. But when you need to find whereinhell did I find that particular widget, the records become priceless.
I kept every single parts invoice (absent the ones EB told me he didn't have). This documentation helped me immensely in establishing an "as-agreed" valuation when I went shopping for insurance on this lump.
Listen to what the experts say. Then go ahead and do it anyway.
Do not fart in the car.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.
Just because it has come off the dyno doesn't mean it's done. The "punch list" just seems to get longer . . . .
4/8-16/06 Car washed (first time in nearly 3 years !), polished and waxed. Boy am I ever glad I have waxed the snot out of this thing in the past. Water would still bead once I got the dust, bird shit and mung off of it.
Another jar of Hyde Fude disappears into the leather. Paint took washing x 2, paint clay and orbital buffing with Machine Polish #3 to get sufficient prep. Carnauba x 3 and the finish begins to look acceptable. It will take another 2 or 3 coats of wax to properly fill and seal. Yes, this did take the better part of a week of evenings plus a full weekend to get this far.
After the dyno pulls, the motor was ~1/2 quart low. Between assembly and completing the 4/7/06 pull series, the oil and filter had been changed 5 times; mileage covered roughly 1200 per the odo. This is both over-the-road and recorded mileage on the rollers. When filled from bone-dry, the motor took 7+ quarts to hit the full mark. Changes are taking a bit over 6 1/2. Combine this with some indications of oil burning at startup -- a few seconds of blue smoke, and the static level may be marginal for the oil level sender; the Check Engine Oil warning light coming on, even with oil at the Full mark. Added another 1/2 quart which seems to have stopped the problem. Note: the problem has reappeared, but let the motor run for a few minute to oil ~150 deg. F, shut down for a few minutes, then restart seems to solve the matter.
To throw more napalm on the oil selection fire, I used Kendall non-detergent straight 30-weight for the break-in and first 3 changes; new filter each time. Next 2 changes were with Kendall D-3 15W-40. This stuff was designed for diesels and off-road equipment. As such, it has a high zinc content additive pack. In other words, the EPA nazis frown on it's use for highway applications. The oil is dino, not synthetic. The game plan is changes at 3,000 mile intervals; less if boost is used much.
I've been told that when ExxonMobil went to the new product spread on Mobil 1, there were significant alterations in the additive package. Basically, the additives cost money and were reduced to increase profit margins. I have no experience with AmSoil or Redline's synthetics, so I am at a loss to choose a full synthetic when/as/if I switch over. Colorado Petroleum, the local Kendall distributor, tells me that ConocoPhillips (who now owns and produces Kendall lubricants), is taking heat over the additive pack, so D-3 may get reformulated. Same story on Shell's Rotella T. Input, anyone?
Item: Between installation of the TEC-3r and "OK, you're good to go," we tried 140 different BIN files. Each time a parameter was changed, or we received an update/patch/revision from Electromotive, it was entered as a discrete BIN file. This for reference purposes. I cannot provide the number of separate dyno pulls, but the number easily exceeds 300 between late August, 2005 and April 2006. Here. Smoke this.
4/27/06 To Bimmerhaus to deal with the A/C non-function, flush the power steering and a new PS filter. The A/C problem may stem from a non-functioning relay affecting compressor engagement. Dave noted the system has lost some refrigerant since it was topped up back in August. Most likely seals have dried out some, not having been used for nearly 3 years.
The problem was finally traced to a pinched wire (intermittent short) in the console feeding into the A/C temperature rheostat. EB had pulled the console when he installed Shawn D's gauge panel. It looks like the reinstall wasn't done with a whole lot of care. It took two of us the better part of a day to solve this one.
The "Check Engine Oil" light gremlin is baaaaack.
The issue may be with the sender itself being faulty; it is the original one to the car, so may have gotten tired after 18-19 years. Replaced. Dave sez the M30 and S38 sensors are known to get funky; the oil intake orofice is very small (< 1 mm), and can become clogged.Note: the "Check Engine Oil" light coming on repeatedly was the initial push towards considering reworking the motor. This was in October of 2002. Something about the first pebble starting the avalanche . . . .
5/5/06 In the 200 miles or so since coming out of Mile High, there has been significant pulling to the right on braking. Temperature analysis on calipers/rotors shows things are OK there. Caliper pistons are OK after the caliper rebuild--nothing leaking or hanging up. Teardown of the RF strut reveals that the threaded end of the shock piston is not engaged in the strut body. Very low resistance to compression, nearly certain gas pressure loss. Not terribly surprising, as the Dinan-configured Billies have over 110,000 miles on them. BUT the strut appears to have beeen improperly reassembled at EB's, where the struts were torn down as part of the welding in of the external reinforcing bracket. (Do it ever quit??)
When I picked up the car in August, 2004, the struts had been reinstalled as part of my request to have the car ready for loading and transport. Once back at Bimmerhaus, the BavAuto/K-Mac camber adjustment plates were installed, as were the strut-to-steering arm spacers, but disassembling the struts themselves was not undertaken. Anyway, both front inserts replaced with new Bilstein HDs. p/n P36-0243. These are the same ones as were part of the Dinan Stage 4 suspension package. Inspection of the springs shows these, at least, are OK. With the struts rebuilt, the pulling under braking goes away. 8) The ABS light is coming on when the car begins forward motion (NOT at startup with the car at rest.) Possibility that one or both of the sensors was damaged when we removed the struts. The sensors are known to be somewhat fragile. These are the original units and the plastic housing may have become brittle over time. Erratic electrical resistance on the LF. Both sensors replaced. Problem resolved.
5/17/06 Time to try this puppy out. Business trip to Grand Junction and back to Denver via I-70 and some secondary roads. Coolant temp ~205 deg F, oil temp showing ~230 deg. F when stuck in delayed traffic at the Eisenhower Tunnel (11,000 ft). Overheating goes away once we are moving again -- coolant down to 170 or so, oil at 210. In other words, normal, but it serves to emphasize the 7-inch auxiliary fan is pretty marginal for cooling in heavy traffic. Freeway mileage at 70-75+ cruise, 20.2. Secondary roads back to Denver, 19.1. Some driving under boost, but lots of traffic and low speeds. When circumstances require, other vehicles on the road can be treated as stationary objects. Mmmwuhahahahahaha.
Acceleration from cruising speeds is. . . .stupefying. 5/27/06 The clutch engagement problem seems somewhat less as I put more miles on it. I don't know if this is due to my becoming more familiar with the engagement point, or if the metallic friction pucks have become somewhat worn or broken in and have a measure of slippage. No signs of "free-revving" under load at this point, but no aggressive shifting or drag-type starts either.
Paint is still freely taking on wax. This is coat #4 since mid-April. Another Hide Food application; absorbed readily, especially on the dash. The fact that the lanolin has gone in so easily is some testimony of how dried out the leather had become. Looks nearly like new though.
6/4/06 Rocky Mountain Cerebral Palsy Foundation Concours. You show me yours and I'll show you mine.
So the whip gets to attend the local Looky-Me party.
Kind of like a dressage. Dressage: A bunch of horses showing their asses to a bunch of horse's asses.
OK. The Summer Lawn Party and Toy Showing has gone off. Great turnout by the various marques, plus lots of custom American Iron. Excellent attendance by the paying pubelick,
which is wonderful for the Cerebral Palsy Foundation. Only downside is that for some of the marques, the more interesting/unusual examples weren't there. E.g., for BMW no 2002s or CS coupes. For Ferrari, no older models -- 250 Lusso, Superamericas, or early roadsters. Very few early Corvettes. I meant to get over to get some shots of the rods, but regretfully, that didn't happen. I didn't get to do much wandering around. I spent nearly all day answering questions related to That Thing.
Answers to the most frequently asked questions, (mentioned in Part 1):
1. Yes, I have.
2. No, you may not.
3. Occasionally, under the right circumstances.
4. Less than I'd like to.
5. Much more than I should have.
6. Is the bear Catholic?
7. Only under a grant of immunity.
8. Enough to get you charged with a felony in the State of Mississippi.
9. If I can pick the road.
10. Bring it, Homes.
As a result of much pimping,
I agreed to enter That Thing in the "Judged" category. This is a 3/4 speed concours-type evaluation. The judges have some serious problems that need Professional Help. I mean inspection with a Q-tip of alternator armatures to see if there is dirt??? Oh, Please. Much to my astonishment, That Thing (LH) comes away with a bright yellow ribbon. My lump has been selected as"Judges Favorite, Best of Marque,"
despite having been marked off severely for having pits in the windshield, sun fading of the package shelf, and the fact it has actually been driven.Oh, the horror !! My receiving this prize totally infuriated the Gorgon who is the editor of the Chapter's monthly toilet roll.
Third parties later informed me she had guaranteed this bauble to another owner in the RM Chapter . . .The RM Chapter is a mixed bag, as the following list would seem to infer.
KH smartass remarques re. BMWCCA. Posted on the board recently.
Are you a BMWCCA Member? Why? Why not?
1. Yes, I am. This line stolen from an AA meeting.
2. Because I can get into the brie and chardonnay at the debutante parties (oops, Chapter meetings). This may or may not be better than the Velveeta and Old Milwaukee Light offered at the Front Range Corvette Owners gatherings (klaverns?)
3. The CCA discount brings parts prices down to only retail plus 15% at the stealer.
4. Copies of "Roundel" show more class in the can than "Lowrider" magazine.
5. I receive more junk mail offering me credit cards or offers to refinance my mortgage or get a home equity line of credit.
6. I can post the membership sticker on the rear window of my SUV, right next to my NRA Life Member one.
7. I can show the membership card to the arresting officer along with my DL, registration and POI, and then tell him to FO, because I know more about driving than he does, having been through a few drivers schools.
8. It makes me feel priveleged, like a member of the Duke U. lacrosse team.
9. If I flash the card at the off-duty cops playing doorman at Denver's LoDo clubs, I am guaranteed immediate entry with no cover charge.
10. It makes my waste products smelleth not.
June/September/06 Doing various trips over the passes, the car shows a tendency to overheat in traffic. Water temps tend to creep up,over 205-210 deg. F. I have had the expansion tank overflowing, spraying coolant out the vent port. I park it and old people offer me a Depends . . . I suspect a bad fan clutch or weak seal on the expansion tank pressure cap.
November/06 Put away for the winter. I'll deal with the cooling issues in the Spring, along with getting the new software release from Electromotive. In the meantime, I will harass the boardlings.
I have been asked a number of times what this little fandango cost. A lot.
The question isn't all that easy to answer. Some of this is because it's hard to say where one project ended and another phase began. Does replacing the original cat-back exhaust with a UUC upgrade (which later got sold) get included? Do I roll in the Euro bumpers and lights? What about the Dinan Stage IV suspension that went in 17 years ago? Do I include a value on my time? What about the costs related to technical blind alleys?
In going over my "build book," shop records, statements, subcontractor invoices, etc. I can document a combined total just short of 750 hours labor. That is independent of my time spent doing research, parts chasing, and all of the related activities to allow the experts to focus on what they do best.
I think this number could be materially reduced if I was in a situation where I could have done the work out of my own garage. Space and tooling limitations, and I had a sense this was going to stretch out for a while. My bride was less than enthusiastic about the prospect.
If the project was to be repeated from scratch, knowing what I know now, I think the hours would come in around 350 to 400; the reduction coming from not having to do the R&D. If all the parts were to be purchased in "bulk" orders from the various sources, and not find surprises (tranny, repeat on the turbo), I think 20 to 25% could come off the total outlay. A lot of this would be due to not repeating technical blind alleys and getting a dollar volume break. This is independent of any potential CCA discounts. My pricing, BTW, was considerably under retail in many cases, and involved numerous suppliers where CCA did not apply.
The next section is not for the faint of heart, or those who are easily offended. If it gives you a case of the RA, TFB. Take a douche.
The following screed is an extract from some remarks I was going to make at FF5. Layton had asked me to do a presentation for the Tech Session on building a stroker motor. As matters turned out, I didn't go.
[Following section redacted on advice of counsel.]
"A few more remarks for the unwashed. RANT WARNING for you emotionally sensitive pinche pendejos. If you're not familiar with colloquial Mex Spanish, ask one of your Hispanic friends what these terms mean, or look it up in http://www.urbandictionary.com. Heh.
The last E28 went down in 1988. 17 years later and people whine about things wearing out and parts being NLA. Kwitcherbitchin.
In following the E28 boards (Roachfly, mye28.com, Bummerforums, m5board.com and others), I see an awful lot of people wanting to convert their baseline 5er into an M5 or some similar exercise. They also want to do it for no money.
Do this in a nasal twang and whiney tone of voice "Cuz I are a wannabe, I bought my 528e with 267K miles on it for $800. Somebody needs to give me their S38B35 with 40,000 miles on it. I need a new set of tires and rims. I are a stone broke hah skewl stewdent and cain't affowerd anathang." Excuse me. Bullshit. These cars, M-series especially, were never cheap. The 4-valve motors are race-derived and have always required special attention and care. The M-cars themselves cost around 50 Large when they were in production in the late 80's. Translated into current dollars, that's around $120 grand, depending on the rate of inflation one chooses to use. This is pretty rarefied atmosphere. Put it in perspective: March your delicate young ass down to your friendly BMW dealer and step right up for an E60 M5. If you cannot or will not spend the requisite effort and scratch to Do It Right, you have no business with these machines. Get a Honda and Get Over It. Your wallet and Significant Other will be grateful.
Frankly, I don't care what the squabbling infants of whatever chronological age on any of the BMW forums have to say. Trying to refurbish E28s (and M5s in particular) simply cannot be done on the cheap. This includes DIY. Not and expect top-quality results. My personal standards are aircraft-grade workmanship as an acceptable floor, and I expect reliability equal to that of a stone ax. This takes time and it ain't free. This applies in spades where FI is concerned. There IS some good work being done out there, but most of it is real cheese. A few people who post have some demonstrable engineering knowledge as basis for their input, but based on the posts I read, most of this rabble are technological half-wits."
There. I feel better now.
Rude, crude and settled in my ways, Politically Correct I ain't.
Don't take any of it personally.
Cost overruns. Hoo boy. Have we got cost overruns.
The ferocious cost overruns can be traced to at least eight sources.
1. The original estimating, while appearing precise, was in fact very vague. The numbers were general at best for an NA motor; there was no link to reality for the turbo approach. What should have been asked for was a detailed item-by-item schedule of parts required along with p/n's. I could have run that schedule past my sources to see what kind of quote I could obtain. Hours quoted should have been cross-checked against the KSD or gone over with a dealer Service Manager for a reality check.
2. Written estimates should have been obtained from the subcontractors before any work was begun, including that by the engine builder. While this was original, one-off stuff and being done on a time and materials basis, order-of-magnitude figures should be available if the sub. had any knowledge of the business. That being stipulated, some ballpark information still should have been generated and run past me, the client.
3.Subcontractor and supplier invoices should have been sent through me for payment, or at a minimum, approval before payment.
4. Given the monies involved, I should have established an escrow account; disbursements against invoices and job tickets for hours directly applied to the job. In other words, proper management controls.
5. A specific contract should have been drawn up, stating time frames, obligations for both parties, performance criteria, and penalties for nonperformance. EB's balking at signing such a document would have been a major red flag. Overkill perhaps, but a sure-fire litmus test.
6. Not obtaining a list of at least four of EB's clients* who had major projects done within the last year. These players should have been contacted and asked for their opinion as to workmanship, timliness, and so on. Similar references for subcontractors. EB mentioned he had worked for a very prominent shop before going out on his own. I negliected to contact that shop and find out what their experience/opinion of EB was before I committed to his starting on the job. Their input came to light after I had already paid for the crank, valves, pistons, etc. and had delivered the car. I can't remember if I had discussed EB's work product with the owner of the prominent shop. I think I did when I was trying to get EB's phone #. In any case, I don't recall the owner's reaction.
7. Absence of photographic or other documentary evidence of progress over time, this despite repeated requests. I had to initiate nearly every status report inquiry. Had I not done so, I strongly believe the only feedback would have been at the stated completion date that things were behind schedule.
8. My reluctance to take the time/spend the money and do an eyes-on inspection (possibly unannounced) at a couple of intervals to determine progress. This wasn't done partly out of being cheap, but also my reluctance to micromanage.
I'm not sure what I would have done if I had found that nothing was being done. I hadn't done all the homework needed on possible alternatives in the Front Range, and the previously-mentioned sources were off the table for reasons outlined in earlier parts of this narrative. FWIW, when I did get some photos from another EB client in early July, 2004, one of them referenced work on his car in November, 2003. He provided a pic of my car, taken at that time. That photo appears to show no work having been done. This would mean that about five months had passed with little or no activity, approaching the first extended completion date, and sizable $ having been sent for labor.
*Four is something of an arbitrary number, but if a shop is serious about it's focus and generating business, production at or above that level means this is a full-time operation and not a hobby. "Four" in this case means soup-to-nuts engine builds, not just a valve job or some port work. One-man shops are always a question mark; the proprietor is often wearing too many hats to devote his attention to the job at hand, i.e., nose-down into the client's piece of work.
Now in a lighter vein,
In any complex project, there are three primary parameters which must be dealt with by the Project Manager:
Cost (or budget, if you will).
Specifications, or Performance Requirements.
Time to Completion, or a Delivery Deadline.
For any task, group of tasks, or for the exercise as a whole, only two of the above elements can be controlled. The third is an independent operator.
If Cost or budget is fixed, and the Completion Date is unalterable, Performance Requirements will be reduced or unmet.
With unchangeable Performance Requirements and a fixed budget, a Completion Date is unknowable.
If Specifications cannot be changed, and the Delivery Deadline is set in cement, Cost is indeterminate (and will invariably escalate).
Don't lie to me; you know I'm right.
A number of findings and observations.
There is no such thing as too much study and research. There is a vast amount of technical literature available on high-performance engines. Most of this does not require having anything beyond high school algebra. Read the material.
If you are near a college or university with an Engineering Department, find out if someone on the Mech. E. faculty will offer some advice or assistance. People are often very surprised and gratified that someone, on their own, has sought them out for their opinion, advice and expertise. I did this, and much to my astonishment, the rocket-builders (literally) got really excited about my endeavor.
Talk to as many engine builders as you can regarding what you have in mind. Do your homework before you ask for their time. Become as knowledgeable as possible, and reduce your questions to writing beforehand. This will focus your thinking and keep answers on-topic. Do NOT go in and ask, "How big a cam can I put on my M30?" Huh-huh-huh.
(Beavis accent)
As an aside here, there are quite a few shops across the country who advertise doing BMW motors. Very few of these have genuine expertise. Those that do charge accordingly.
Advertising claims are not the same as documented results. Talk to their clientele. They will give you names of clients, right? If not, run away . . .
Look at the undertaking as a collection of systems that have to work together. Read any and all literature from the manufacturers before you spend the money. It's not unheard-of that two items, each of which is regarded as the hot ticket, won't work together.
The part you require is NLA.
Lead times are invariably two to three times longer than what you are told.
You have less than half the money you will need.
Your schedule is not necessarily the shop or builder's schedule. People have a life.
Poor planning on your part does not constitute a crisis on my part.
"Inexpensive FI" is an oxymoron.
Your build will be different from my build.
It is 17 years old. It is worn out. Replace it. Get Over It.
Ask for help.
Remember, They are in it for the money. You are in it for the carnal knowledge.
Keep track of what you want to do, how you are planning on doing it, and what you actually did. By task, by day. This needs to go into a logbook. This includes part #s, supplier's names, addys and phone numbers. No such thing as too many pictures, along with explanatory captions or notations.
If you run across interesting topics, ideas or material that is only generally related to the project, write it down, scan it, put it in your 'Favorites' file, but save it, or how to reference it. Serendipity has potentially large payoffs.
If you do not have a digital cam with really good definition, get one. Sort of like having an accurate torque wrench.
Speaking of which, get a copy of the BMW Torque Tightening Manual and the TIS (Technical Specifications Manual). The latter has clearances, tolerances and so on. Every single fastener on our motors has a specified torque setting. BMW didn't just guess what "tight enough" means. There is a reason to follow their advice.
Cleanliness is Godliness during assembly. There is a reason surgeons scrub before procedures, and why the operative site is known as a "sterile field."
Beer is for after "tools down." not during.
When you are in my whip, turn off the fucking cell phone.
DO NOT USE KING SOOPERS TO DEVELOP FILM.
The logbook/blog/diary/whatever sounds really anal and it is time consuming. But when you need to find whereinhell did I find that particular widget, the records become priceless.
I kept every single parts invoice (absent the ones EB told me he didn't have). This documentation helped me immensely in establishing an "as-agreed" valuation when I went shopping for insurance on this lump.
Listen to what the experts say. Then go ahead and do it anyway.
Do not fart in the car.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.
Sway bars sit in a relatively firm urethane sleeve. Front and rear bars have been played with a bit to establish the desired stiffness. The car has shown a tendency to understeer, so has the front bar set at the midpoint hole; rear bar is set at the inner (stiffer) hole. 
Do you know if they are having any issues?