Here are some pictures. Of course, it has not been as easy as I thought it would be.
I need to do some painting on the valance, mount the other two HE to the valance and then I can button it back up. The fan on the HE is wired with the A/C electric fan in front of the radiator. It comes on automatically when the head pressure in the A/C system trips it. I also have a bypass button so I can turn the two fans on at anytime. I will also be replacing the zip ties with safety wire.
I did some checking and having the ports at the bottom on the HE will not be a problem. All air will be forced out by water pressure.
More pictures when I have the HE mounted on the valance.
Last edited by Duke on Oct 03, 2007 8:55 PM, edited 1 time in total.
Todd's right on this one, Duke. Bleed valves silver-soldered in @ the high point(s) of the HEs simply makes good sense. They will also prevent a vacuum lock when you open the drain valves @ the low point(s) of the system. You are installing drain valves, right?
A local "Old School" radiator shop should be able to do the "bleed fittings" at a high point on the exchanger. You are going to mount the fan with something other than the zip ties, aren't you?
Shawn D. wrote:Ahem, Duke, in your posts about this setup, you haven't credited the originator of the idea.
Yes....yes.............yes, Shawn is the man who thought this great idea up. Thank you Shawn! Too bad you are not closer to help me make it a reality. My memory is so bad that I did not recall it at all.
Notice the bleed valves on top of the radiators?
Now I do, missed that before.
OK, on to a bleed hole.
How about one of these - requires a 3/16 hole.
Mini Low-Pressure Mechanical Test Plugs
* Plate: Type 304 stainless steel
* Stem: Type 302 stainless steel
* Nut: Aluminum
* Seal: Neoprene
* Temperature Range: -50° to +250° F
Our smallest low-pressure test plugs have a low-profile coupling nut that you tighten to create the seal.
* Plate: Type 304 stainless steel
* Stem: Type 302 stainless steel
* Nut: Aluminum
* Seal: Neoprene
* Temperature Range: -50° to +250° F
Our smallest low-pressure test plugs have a low-profile coupling nut that you tighten to create the seal.
$3.16 from McMaster-Carr
OR, pick up a brass radiator drain valve @ NAPA. The issue is going to be getting a solid, dry seal when you tap the HE end tank, hence my suggestion about looking into having it silver-soldered into place.
Ken H. wrote: OR, pick up a brass radiator drain valve @ NAPA. The issue is going to be getting a solid, dry seal when you tap the HE end tank, hence my suggestion about looking into having it silver-soldered into place.
Remember Ken, this system will see very little pressure. The plug is good for up to 25 psi of water pressure.
True, but the silver soldering is a way to eliminate another potential weak (leak? ) point. I dunno how thick the material is on the HE end tanks, so assuring a seal on the threads is a question mark, even if Permatex or something similar gets used.
The second HE will not fit below the battery box HE (BBHE). It will have to stay in front of the radiator where it is now. Plumbing is in except for the HE that will attach to the valance on the passenger side.
You can see where I drilled a .20" hole for the pressure fitting in the BBHE.
The second picture shows the holes cut for the air ducts that will feed air directly to the BBHE and the CAIB.
Last edited by Duke on Oct 03, 2007 9:20 PM, edited 1 time in total.
