MyE28.com

I bought an MLS head gasket from TCD and ARP head studs. I used their assembly lube so I know the final torque spec should be 80 ft-lbs. Am I right to follow the Bentley instructions and torque to 59 ft-lbs, run the engine for 20 minutes and then torque down to the final 80 ft-lbs? Or should I go ahead and torque down to 80 ft-lbs before warming up the engine for the first time?

Maddog wrote:I bought an MLS head gasket from TCD and ARP head studs. I used their assembly lube so I know the final torque spec should be 80 ft-lbs. Am I right to follow the Bentley instructions and torque to 59 ft-lbs, run the engine for 20 minutes and then torque down to the final 80 ft-lbs? Or should I go ahead and torque down to 80 ft-lbs before warming up the engine for the first time?

I did not do it in this manner... I followed the instructions that came along with the head studs... torque to initial torque, then secondary, then final, IIRC.

The instructions that came with my ARP studs said follow the manufacturer's tightening instructions and use 80 ft-lbs as the final torque.

Maddog wrote:The instructions that came with my ARP studs said follow the manufacturer's tightening instructions and use 80 ft-lbs as the final torque.

No, I do not think it does. It says follow manufacturer's tightening sequence and the ARP tightening instructions which are 40-60-80.

Todd

Also, do not forget to polish all surfaces with a Roloc disc before installing the MLS gasket!

We went with 40-60-80 and no warmup in between when we installed the studs with a new headgasket. I've had no issues with a stock headgasket at 20k miles or so.

Jeremy

I read the ARP website, and they recommend re-torquing after Running when using a stock Headgasket because they shrink a little. WIth an MLS, that probally doesnt happen(i doubt they shrink the same).

I did 40-60-80 using a stock head gasket. And after a few days, at full boost(bout 15psi) around peak torque, i heard the head leak(sounded like an air gun firing).

So i cleaned up the ARP Studs, used new ARP Lube, drained coolant, and retorqued them all. Ill know tommorow how it goes. Car was way fast with zero detonation(kept adding little timing, never detonated), so if it seals good now, its gonna be fun.

Oh yea, when I went to loosen the ARP Studs, they started loosening at only around 40ft/lbs, so im pretty sure they werent torqued down properly.

Keep re torquing the nuts until they all "click" off at 80 lbs at least twice with no movement.

All re torquing should be done with the engine overnight cold. The first should be after one heat cycle and the next after a few days. When I check the valve clearances, I also check the torque now.

It took four re torquing for all of the nuts to stay torqued to 80 ft/lbs (on my engine).

Duke M535ti wrote:When I check the valve clearances, I also check the torque now.

I don't know how you are checking the torque, but it's generally not a good idea to check bolts by putting a wrench on them again. Put a dab of paint on the bolt/washer/head.

Skeen wrote:I don't know how you are checking the torque, but it's generally not a good idea to check bolts by putting a wrench on them again.

They are not bolts but nuts. That may make a difference.