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ok so now that i got all these bolt on parts . it comes time for turbo. and i had a friend of mine ship me a m21 manifold and turbo .
i got the idea that this would work. is this right? and the other question.
i want more rpm so i wanted to know if i can get away with putting a 325i cam in my 200 casting eta head and put in new valve springs, to obtain more rpm. while using 325i ecu and wire harness. and get a chip for that ecu.

The 200 head sucks in several ways. First of all, you can see how small the valves and ports are. That head was designed for a 2 liter engine. You wont get more rpm out of that casting. An i cam helps, but mostly in the midrange. It still blows on the top end, over 5k. The 885 head is much better for an eta turbo. Obviously it has much larger valves and ports. It also has an improved water jacket and better combustion chambers. So it flows better and cools better, which makes it more reliable for high-stank operation. If you bolt that 885 onto your standard e pistons, you'll get a fairly low compression ratio, but thats what you want for a turbo. Theres some guy on some e30 forum running 19 psi on a stock 885 head and standard e pistons.

If you use an m21 manifold, buy a dremel tool and a flex shaft and get to work. Open it up as much as you can inside. Especially at the throat of the manifold where it meets the turbine inlet. I dont know if the T3 flanged, EGR manifolds are as small inside as my T25 non EGR manifold was, but a little grinding cant hurt in any case.

The td turbo is alright for a non intercooled, low boost gasoline engine. If you intercool it, crank up the boost or both, you'll run out of turbo pretty fast. And thats just the compressor. The turbine is pathetically small, and I wouldn't run it on any m20. You need at least a .63 AR T3 turbine housing. I dont know what kind of wheel is in those old td turbos, but I bet theres a larger Garrett turbine housing that fits it.

Ditch the turbo and go with something bigger. You'll be very disappointed with the td turbo - It's not even enough to get decent power from an M20B20.

I've heard that the compressor is the 50 trim T3 wheel:

Just looking at that, it looks like you'd need at least 13 or 14 psi to make a reasonably efficient 250 HP. The problem is that the intercooled m20 wants more than 25 lbs/min at that boost pressure. The non-intercooled m20 would probably detonate at 13 or 14 psi, and you probably wouldn't be making more than 220 HP. I guess it just depends on your goals. Once you get a taste of it, you're going to want more.

well if the head blows that bad . i go ahead and get me a 352i head and rebuild it. the manifold im getting should be non egr. as its coming out of eruope. intercooler i got but i think it might be a bit too bigg. but i will have to see if it fits. as for the turbo any one know if a t3/t4 will fitt or will i have to make an adapter ? i gusse a 325i head wont hurt since i already have the intake

zundfoldge wrote:well if the head blows that bad . i go ahead and get me a 352i head and rebuild it. the manifold im getting should be non egr. as its coming out of eruope. intercooler i got but i think it might be a bit too bigg. but i will have to see if it fits. as for the turbo any one know if a t3/t4 will fitt or will i have to make an adapter ? i gusse a 325i head wont hurt since i already have the intake

Europe had EGR cars too. The US got EGR only, while it was optional on euros. Do you have any idea how to choose the correct turbo? What is a T3/T4? What kind of compressor? Which turbine housing and wheel? Internal or external wastegate? How much boost? How much air will your engine require at various boost levels? These are things you need to know and understand before you buy a turbo. Check out the Honeywell Garrett website's turbo tech section. If you have an attention span, that'll get you started in the right direction.

if i read right on the turbo its 50 hot side and 63ar on the cold side.

zundfoldge wrote:if i read right on the turbo its 50 hot side and 63ar on the cold side.

Sounds like a chinese turbo on a rip off ebay auction. I am very weary of places that use rice slang like "hot" and "cold" side. If you plan on keeping the car and making good power you shouldn't waste time with junk-ass generic brand rip off turbos. You have to pay more, but I'm okay with that to know exactly what I'm getting, and that I'm not getting ripped off.

turbodan wrote:

zundfoldge wrote:if i read right on the turbo its 50 hot side and 63ar on the cold side.

Sounds like a chinese turbo on a rip off ebay auction. I am very weary of places that use rice slang like "hot" and "cold" side. If you plan on keeping the car and making good power you shouldn't waste time with junk-ass generic brand rip off turbos. You have to pay more, but I'm okay with that to know exactly what I'm getting, and that I'm not getting ripped off.

no its not a cheap rice banger turbo. you dont get any ware going cheap on a turbo. if i were to do that i might as well buy one of those electic supr chagers . i personaly just dont know the terms for for each side so i descirbed it in a fashion that was easy enough to under stand.

well tomarrow i go to get my head , ecu and wire harness. then i will rebuild the head . tear it down check the valve margins and all that goodness. i also have a set of pistons and rods form an 1991 325ic would it do me any good to put these pistons in my block . figuring i already have it torn down its not that much furthur to go and put these in if its any kind of up grade .

zundfoldge wrote:well tomarrow i go to get my head , ecu and wire harness. then i will rebuild the head . tear it down check the valve margins and all that goodness. i also have a set of pistons and rods form an 1991 325ic would it do me any good to put these pistons in my block . figuring i already have it torn down its not that much furthur to go and put these in if its any kind of up grade .

You seem to need to do a bit of research. Do you know anything about the turbo other than the A/R?