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What's anyone's preference for boost control? There's so many options available that it's all a bit boggling. Anything from $30 in plumbing parts to $600.

There's the diverter valve. Connects to the boost signal line sends some to the top of the diaphragm and some to the bottom, thus increasing effective boost based on the proportion of what gets sent where. I'm not a big fan of this concept, but it's there.

Ball check valve. Ball bearing with a spring on the backside, plumbed inline with the wategate signal line. When pressure builds enough to overcome the spring, signal goes to the wastegate. Boost pressure is controlled by adjusting the tension on the spring. Supposedly helps the turbo reach full boost faster as the wastegate sees no pressure until the check valve pops (standard wastegate starts to open slightly before full boost is achieved). Cheap, effective. I kinda dig it. Downside boost spike over target is possible as check valve opens. Can be built from hardware store parts, or purchased for a slicker design. Figure $30-100.

Electronic boost controllers. Stepper motor or solenoid control, all kinds of options from GReddy, HKS, and the like. Some work better than others, but are cost prohibitive. Used is an option, but then reliability is a bit questionable. Probably not a good idea, and Sports Compact Car did a review that showed that most of the electronic controllers weren't much better than a ball check valve anyway (and some were worse!). SCC Review

Given these options, which would you choose? I'm thinking a pretty anodized ball check valve like the Hallman sounds pretty good, but I'm open to other ideas/opinions.

Or are you guys adjusting boost by changing wastegate springs?

Jeremy

I made a ball check valve from plumbing parts. Works fine. I bought a box of assorted springs, which turned out to be a good idea because I had to try a few different ones to find something that would give me the right range of adjustment.

Ball check valve here. Works great. Cost 16 bucks on ebay. Very effective.

Skeen wrote:I made a ball check valve from plumbing parts. Works fine. I bought a box of assorted springs, which turned out to be a good idea because I had to try a few different ones to find something that would give me the right range of adjustment.

Out of curiosity, did yours spool any faster (rpm-wise) than it did without the boost controller? Just wondering if the information I've read has any merit in that regard.

Jeremy

Jeremy wrote:

Skeen wrote:I made a ball check valve from plumbing parts. Works fine. I bought a box of assorted springs, which turned out to be a good idea because I had to try a few different ones to find something that would give me the right range of adjustment.

Out of curiosity, did yours spool any faster (rpm-wise) than it did without the boost controller? Just wondering if the information I've read has any merit in that regard.

Jeremy

Meh, I haven't messed with it a ton yet, but not much noticeable difference. I'd have to look at some data logs to know for sure.

Well, having used an excellent EBC on my 240sx (Greddy Profec B), I would be hard pressed to want to use a some other form of boost control. Rock solid boost control with fast spoolup and its super easy to set. Also, climate change has no major effect on boost settings. I have driven and ridden in a number of cars that used various mechanical forms of boost control to varying degrees of success. The bleed styles are probably the worst, least effective types. A good ball and spring type I have seen work pretty well, especially for what they cost. Currently on my soon-to-be turbo 535is, I will be running MSII and will most likely use its boost control option so I don't have to go out and buy another EBC.

ive herd good things about the jaycar boost control,
not sure if you guys get jaycar over there, but theres a bit of info on skyline forums bout them, mayb try a search in google.

Call Todd about the boost controller just needs a few parts installed.

Beau

I know a guy with a turbo E30 running an AEM tru boost controller. He autoXs at the national level and says it works great. It is one of the cheaper electronic boost controllers integrated into a gauge and he says he reaches full boost about 200 RPM earlier than before.

I played with megasquirt boost control for a while, but didn't have a lot of luck. I do feel like I gave up a bit early though. As far as I have seen, in open loop mode megasquirt will do alright as a bleeder type boost control (not using the top port of the wastegate). When using the top and bottom ports of the wastegate (to apply pressure to keep the wastegate closed longer) I have seen problems with boost spikes and boost consistency.

Closed loop mode is a whole different story. I believe the MS1 extra guys have given up on it for the most part, and the no one has played with MS2 extra closed loop mode yet. This feature is MS2 extra is relatively new, and I know we just worked out a bug in the code in the beta code. Boost control hasn't made it to the release code yet. Also keep in mind that MS2 extra does not have overboost fuel cut yet.

I am going to be buying an AEM tru boost controller for piece of mind because I know it works and works well and it is cost effective.

of all the electronic controllers, i like the greddy profec B too, its easiest, simplest.

ball and spring works great, if you're looking for quickest spooling, these seem best....

I have the Greddy Profec B II in my exM535ti.

i use the innovate msbc-1. it is an expensive unit but my tuner recommends it and doesn't like to work with anything else and whatever my tuner tells me i take as the gospel since he has been 100% spot on about everything every done to my car. the msbc-1 has perfect boost control, a bunch of ramp settings and boost programmable in every gear. it's a nice unit but once again, it aint cheap!