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At what point do you need big brakes on a turbo e28?
At what point do you need big brakes on a turbo e28?
It looks like I've got a whole bunch of little hairline cracks in my front brake rotors. Kind've in the middle of the braked portion of the disk, radiating out from the center.
I've been really thinking about some e32 brakes. I guess its like "now" time...
I've been really thinking about some e32 brakes. I guess its like "now" time...
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If they are really short, too shallow to feel, very numerous and not really at the edges of the disks, it's probably okay. It's sometimes called "crazing," and it indicates that you got your rotors really hot. If you are using the brakes hard enough to cause that on the street, then upgrading may be a good idea, just for the greater heat-sink mass of the larger rotors (and the venting in the rear rotors). Ducting is another option, but under most street-driving situations you don't need or necessarily want open ducts. If they look like the ones at this link, you're okay to continue using them.turbodan wrote:It looks like I've got a whole bunch of little hairline cracks in my front brake rotors. Kind've in the middle of the braked portion of the disk, radiating out from the center.
I've been really thinking about some e32 brakes. I guess its like "now" time...
You clearly have the power to push around a heavier brake setup, so seeing as you're clearly near rotor-replacement time, I'd just do the upgrade.
-tammer
They seem to stop well within the swept area of the rotor. Just looking through the wheel spokes, they seem to be between 1/2" and 3/4" long. Very much like the ones from the link.
I've had these suckers on there since the car was NA, and before that I put about 10k on them with my old white car, so they've dissipated a shit ton of heat in the last two years or so. I'm sure the pads are showing some signs too. I get them real hot a couple times a week. Thursday nights are real rough...
The rear rotors seemed alright, but I didnt look real close. They seemed to have a uniform, finely smeared appearance to them. That seemed odd to me with stock pads. They usually produce a flat, smooth, dull finish.
I've had these suckers on there since the car was NA, and before that I put about 10k on them with my old white car, so they've dissipated a shit ton of heat in the last two years or so. I'm sure the pads are showing some signs too. I get them real hot a couple times a week. Thursday nights are real rough...
The rear rotors seemed alright, but I didnt look real close. They seemed to have a uniform, finely smeared appearance to them. That seemed odd to me with stock pads. They usually produce a flat, smooth, dull finish.
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Yea, a turbo system definitely has the capacity to get the stock brakes really hot, really fast. I overheated the stock brakes on the street once when I was naturally aspirated, so bigger brakes got put on the "pre-turbo" to do list.
I haven't gotten any fade with a 750fr/540r setup and Porterfield R4S pads. Don't have any track time with the setup, but they're great on the street.
Jeremy
I haven't gotten any fade with a 750fr/540r setup and Porterfield R4S pads. Don't have any track time with the setup, but they're great on the street.
Jeremy
Last edited by Jeremy on Dec 11, 2007 4:01 PM, edited 1 time in total.
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In general, one can find the 4 calipers from an E32 750i for $300, give or take. Rotors (front from the E32, rear from an E34 540i) aren't much more than standard E28 535i rotors. Pads are much cheaper usually, as they are the same size as the E36 M3 front and rear. This may be the biggest benefit of the upgrade; every pad you could possibly want is made in an E36 M3 fitment and they are widely available.sommy wrote:How much money that that setup cost you? ^^
-tammer
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if you can find some junkers, go to rock auto and order some remanufactured Cardone units. They are only $41 each for the e32 fronts with a $40 core charge.
Rear 540's are around $60 each with a $50 core.
Wonder if they'd take your e28 brakes as an even swap for the core charge.
Another place you might consider is O'Reilly's. Looks like the prices are the exact same (nearly) there and they sell Cardone rebuilds.
I have HEARD of people who ordered online and got their products delivered and then actually go to the store (offered as an option) to turn in their cores. I am fairly sure they don't really care WHAT kind of core you turn in at the store and frankly i am not sure how they police that, especially for brakes. They'd need a unit to compare it to in order to tell an e28 caliper from that of an e32...or....they'd need to be a BMW expert. I am not advocating it....but you are looking at $250 ish for a fully rebuilt set.
Rear 540's are around $60 each with a $50 core.
Wonder if they'd take your e28 brakes as an even swap for the core charge.
Another place you might consider is O'Reilly's. Looks like the prices are the exact same (nearly) there and they sell Cardone rebuilds.
I have HEARD of people who ordered online and got their products delivered and then actually go to the store (offered as an option) to turn in their cores. I am fairly sure they don't really care WHAT kind of core you turn in at the store and frankly i am not sure how they police that, especially for brakes. They'd need a unit to compare it to in order to tell an e28 caliper from that of an e32...or....they'd need to be a BMW expert. I am not advocating it....but you are looking at $250 ish for a fully rebuilt set.
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Interesting. What are the specifics of this setup, i.e., pads, vented rears? How much better pricing for both front/rear?Steve Haygood wrote:I have the complete brake setup WITHOUT core charge
300 front
400 rears
buy front and rears and get better pricing
includes, reman calipers,new rotors and pads
I was planning on this, but TCD made an offer I couldnt refuse.Steve Haygood wrote:I have the complete brake setup WITHOUT core charge
300 front
400 rears
buy front and rears and get better pricing
includes, reman calipers,new rotors and pads
If I find that the e34 535i brakes (302x22mm) are still not enough, I'll be in touch about the e32 setup...
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Just so that I'm clear on your thought rational, you would rather have clean wheels than to be able to stop well. Are you joking, or did SEB get your sign on info?wkohler wrote:I've got those on the 535 according to the service records - pretty dusty. They stop the car though, which really isn't as important to me as the dust factor. I guess if that sort of thing is important to you, go for them.
Vance
Remember that dry wit I have?vance wrote:Just so that I'm clear on your thought rational, you would rather have clean wheels than to be able to stop well. Are you joking, or did SEB get your sign on info?wkohler wrote:I've got those on the 535 according to the service records - pretty dusty. They stop the car though, which really isn't as important to me as the dust factor. I guess if that sort of thing is important to you, go for them.
Vance