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TRE in-tank fuel pump question
Posted: Oct 25, 2011 10:52 PM
by wkohler
I bought a TRE 255lph in-tank pump and am in the process of installing it on the pickup assembly.
The problem I have is that the outlet on the pump is for 8mm ID fuel hose and the inlet on the pickup is for 12mm hose. They give you a piece of 5/16" crappy fuel line, which I figure isn't submersible, but either way, I don't have a way to make the connection to the pickup assembly, and am having a shit time with the wiring, but that's another story.
So, I don't know what to do and have wasted several days and gone to plenty of tube and hose people who just say, "I don't got nothin' like that." I ask if they know anyone who does and they say, "Nope." So, I'm pretty close to just spending the $300 on the stock one. and running an external 255 lph pump, which I also have.
Posted: Oct 25, 2011 11:13 PM
by scarey013
I'm only laughing, because I know your pain. I went stock with mine, and am going to tackle this, again, when the 300k external one craps out on me.
Good luck. I'm sure this is the best place for this. Someone more helpful will be by soon.
Scott C.
Posted: Oct 26, 2011 12:20 AM
by Coldswede
Have talked to TRE about it? Or how about a better quality 5/16 hose?
Posted: Oct 26, 2011 12:25 AM
by wkohler
No, I haven't talked to them since I think it would be pointless.
I bought a foot (6x more than I need) of 3/8 submersible hose, but I don't like the idea of relying on a clamp to clamp hose that's larger than the outlet. Looks shitty too.
Posted: Oct 26, 2011 7:26 AM
by FirstFives Dictator
can you silver solder some hard line to adapt?
sorry I can't see it so I'm trying to visualize
Posted: Oct 27, 2011 7:25 PM
by Hit Man X
I had to ass with this on a few of my E23s. Lift pump PNs are different obviously, but viewing pics online shows basically the same setup.
I rotated the new pump on the return line and just secured it with a few tack welds. NOW, make sure to measure tank depth a few times. I did not do this and the damned thing was about 1/8" too long so I had to redo everything.
All seems to be working okay. Not sure if the clamps are needed as they were not there on the OE setup, but I guess they cannot hurt since they are not visible. Hope the info helps.
Pic at bottom (excuse the snot welds, ran out of gas):
Posted: Oct 27, 2011 7:28 PM
by mooseheadm5
I guess to answer Chris' question, did you just clamp the shit out of a piece of 12mm hose to make it fit the pump?
In my head I'm seeing the part that can be made to rectify this situation. I'll have to send a drawing to the machine shop to see what they come up with for pricing.
Posted: Oct 27, 2011 7:45 PM
by wkohler
I will get some pictures when I get back in town. A guy on bimmerforums did that, but has some serious fuel system leak down, and after trying it myself, you can't even get the hose snug, so I see why.
Mine is a Euro pickup, so it's a bit different.
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 1:25 AM
by Kyle in NO
The stock rubber "hose" that connects the pump to the pickup WILL rupture when using a 255lph pump. AMHIK. The clamps will just speed the process along.
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 7:27 AM
by M. Holtmeier
Kyle in NO wrote:The stock rubber "hose" that connects the pump to the pickup WILL rupture when using a 255lph pump. AMHIK. The clamps will just speed the process along.
I just confirmed this a couple of weeks ago.
I ended up cutting most of the pickup tube off and using a brass reducer from Menard's. I figured this is the last step before the
entire fuel system needs to be upgraded. I hope that doesn't happen.
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 10:32 AM
by mooseheadm5
I'm going to have Chris send me his pump and some pickups and I will make something that definitely works and doesn't rupture or leak down.
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 11:16 AM
by M. Holtmeier
The picture with my "2-a-this, 2-a-that" clamp setup has piqued your interest?
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 11:32 AM
by mooseheadm5
M. Holtmeier wrote: The picture with my "2-a-this, 2-a-that" clamp setup has piqued your interest?
Nah, we worked it out last night. I just have to have the dimensions from his US and euro parts to see if the design I drew up last night will work or if I have to make changes.
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 11:50 AM
by Jeremy
The brass reducer is the best idea for something that you can get right now and get it back together.
BTW - Who cares if it "looks shitty"? As long as it works, nobody will ever see it.
Jeremy
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 12:05 PM
by wkohler
I care. When I do something, I want it to be done properly and not look like a hackjob. I guess it could be asking too much. I was considering the reducer, but the space needed to use it was a concern (though less of one for the Euro pickup). It occurred to me to just cut more off the pipe, so that's the direction I was going to go, but I'm pretty excited about what Paul has thought up.
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 8:12 PM
by Scottinva
You guys are making this complicated. I cut out that stupid huge one and braised in another of the same size. I used a tubing bender to make the shapes and even put fancy flared ends. I believe both feed and return are 3/8 now, then I ran all new hose down to the other pump. 3/8 is also what is on the pump it's not metric either, so I just did the whole thing in standard. You can prob get metric hose over it if you are really that anal though. Making this setup prob took me a whopping 2 hours. It's very solid, all the hoses are the same size now, and it is much faster than taking days to try to figure out parts and designs and stuff. Thats a hell of a lot less of a hackjob then it seems what your trying to do. You could just do the reducer in the tank too like jeremy said.
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 8:22 PM
by mooseheadm5
I'm working on a direct fit collar. No clamps, no cutting (if possible), no hours. Some people would probably rather pay a few bucks for that vs. brazing something that until it was pulled from the tank was submerged in gasoline.
Posted: Oct 28, 2011 8:29 PM
by Scottinva
Ya thats fine, I understand what your doing. Just seems like people struggle with very simple problems.