Megasquirt Ignition on Stock Sensors

cafcwest · Post by **cafcwest** » Nov 23, 2006 10:34 PM

Hi,
I'm looking for some information on using the stock sensors for MSnS instead of converting to a 60-2 wheel/pickup.

If anyone knows of one, a link to someone's writeup would be greatly appreciated (instead of badgering with question after question)
Thanks,
-Jayson

davidu · Post by **davidu** » Nov 23, 2006 11:06 PM

Search for megasquirt you'll find it ,I thinks topic is by duke. I had to read several times.

cafcwest · Post by **cafcwest** » Nov 24, 2006 9:02 AM

Believe it or not, some people actually believe in search before post. I wouldn't have wasted people's time if I had been able to find such information for myself.

Post by **Shawn D.** » Nov 24, 2006 12:21 PM

cafcwest wrote:Believe it or not, some people actually believe in search before post. I wouldn't have wasted people's time if I had been able to find such information for myself.

Well, many people do ask before bothering with a search -- this shouldn't be news to anyone who frequents forums. The question wouldn't have been asked if you'd said something like "I've searched the archives and couldn't find info on..." to let folks know you'd done so.

Duke · Post by **Duke** » Nov 24, 2006 12:36 PM

I am not expert on MS or much of anything really. You may be able to use the H2O sensor, TBS (E34 auto). You will have to install a MAP sensor (way easy) and a 60-2 wheel on the crank (also way easy off of an E34) and the sensor for said wheel.
I would also install a wide band O2 sensor.
Here is a picture of the one I installed with a custom bracket for the sensor bought from The Power Plant in NC. -

M635CSi · Post by **M635CSi** » Nov 24, 2006 1:28 PM

Duke M535ti wrote:I am not expert on MS or much of anything really. You may be able to use the O2 sensor, TBS (E34 auto). You will have to install a MAP sensor (way easy) and a 60-2 wheel on the crank (also way easy off of an E34) and the sensor for said wheel.

Here is a picture of the one I installed with a custom bracket for the sensor bought from The Power Plant in NC. -

Duke, thanks for the tip about The Power Plant in NC having a bracket for the crank sensor - you saved me some time and effort.

I see from the picture you're also trying a new approach to lowering intake air temperature, let us know how it works out!

russc · Post by **russc** » Nov 24, 2006 2:49 PM

I covered this topic a while back, and gave the info you need to use the stock sensors for ingnition timing. You would have to do some research yourself and some building and experimentation on it though. The link:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=19095

Read this thread carefully and go to MS site to do the research.

RussC

Duke · Post by **Duke** » Nov 24, 2006 4:22 PM

I see from the picture you're also trying a new approach to lowering intake air temperature, let us know how it works out!

That’s an old pic. I have re-shaped the intake tube. It is a much more direct run to the turbo with only two small bends now. I covered the new tube with the same insulation TCD uses for his CAB and then wrapped the tube with a heat shield "sock" so to speak. Look great and I know that no engine compartment heat is contributing to AITs.

cafcwest · Post by **cafcwest** » Nov 24, 2006 8:18 PM

thank you all for all the non "search you stupid n00b" replies

Kyle in NO · Post by **Kyle in NO** » Nov 24, 2006 8:25 PM

Duke, I think he was talking about the fact that it was sitting in a snow drift!

M635CSi · Post by **M635CSi** » Nov 24, 2006 9:02 PM

Kyle in NO wrote:Duke, I think he was talking about the fact that it was sitting in a snow drift!

Post by **Shawn D.** » Nov 25, 2006 9:25 AM

cafcwest wrote:thank you all for all the non "search you stupid n00b" replies

Note that there was not a single "search you stupid n00b" reply in this thread whatsoever -- you're just being too sensitive.

-Shawn (now expecting to see a nearly-inevitable "If you don't have any info related to the question, don't respond..." type of comment)

cafcwest · Post by **cafcwest** » Nov 25, 2006 9:33 AM

now expecting to see a nearly-inevitable "If you don't have any info related to the question, don't respond..." type of comment

GregATL · Post by **GregATL** » Nov 29, 2006 12:08 AM

cafcwest wrote:now expecting to see a nearly-inevitable "If you don't have any info related to the question, don't respond..." type of comment

Well if you insist

Oh wait, that would make me a hypocrite wouldn't it?

Skeen · Post by **Skeen** » Nov 29, 2006 7:09 PM

Back to the topic at hand, you can use the stock H2O sensor and there's a pretty common Bosch TPS that you can buy new for ~$50 or find one off a Volvo (and some other stuff). PN: 0280 122 001. Look to GM for the IAT.

altus22 · Post by **altus22** » Nov 30, 2006 11:54 AM

You can use the stock IAT sensor. Peter took the sensor out of the AFM and mounted it to a tube in his intake tract. The TPS from Hyundai and Kia can also be used as they are much more common. Take an ohmeter with you to the yard to verify it is a pot and not switches.

edit: Thanks Shawn.

Post by **Shawn D.** » Nov 30, 2006 11:55 AM

altus22 wrote:... intake tract.

... intake tract.

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » Dec 04, 2006 11:00 PM

russc wrote:I covered this topic a while back, and gave the info you need to use the stock sensors for ingnition timing. You would have to do some research yourself and some building and experimentation on it though. The link:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=19095

Read this thread carefully and go to MS site to do the research.

RussC

Text from the above linked post;

The way I see it is to combine the two signals with the circuit on wheel2.htm page then use a divide by 2 CMOS circuit and go in the the U4 pin 6 input.

Problem is the flywheel teeth /2 don't provide a # that is evenly divisible by 3. Which the MS wheel decoder needs for a 6 cylinder car.

I've played around with some Motronic 1.0 external decoding hardware on the bench (PIC based) but decided it wasn't worth the effort when the 60-2 wheel worked so well.

cafcwest · Post by **cafcwest** » Dec 11, 2006 10:26 PM

FirstFives Dictator wrote: Text from the above linked post;
The way I see it is to combine the two signals with the circuit on wheel2.htm page then use a divide by 2 CMOS circuit and go in the the U4 pin 6 input.
Problem is the flywheel teeth /2 don't provide a # that is evenly divisible by 3. Which the MS wheel decoder needs for a 6 cylinder car.

I've played around with some Motronic 1.0 external decoding hardware on the bench (PIC based) but decided it wasn't worth the effort when the 60-2 wheel worked so well.

Peter,
Yeah, I've pretty much decided that the 60-2 wheel is going to be the easiest route - especially since I just got an entire B35 at a good price. Now all I've got to do is get that big flipping nut off it

-Jayson

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » Dec 12, 2006 6:16 AM

cafcwest wrote: Now all I've got to do is get that big flipping nut off it
-Jayson

Why?
I installed the b35 harmonic balancer on the b34 hub.
Just 8 smaller bolts for balancer and pulleys

Now it is a good idea to change front seal and in that case...

cafcwest · Post by **cafcwest** » Dec 12, 2006 9:14 PM

FirstFives Dictator wrote:
cafcwest wrote: Now all I've got to do is get that big flipping nut off it
-Jayson
Why?
I installed the b35 harmonic balancer on the b34 hub.
Just 8 smaller bolts for balancer and pulleys

Now it is a good idea to change front seal and in that case...

Are you for real!?!!

If so, and by saying that I mean not having to take that big stinking nut off to remove the toothed wheel off the B34 and install on my B34, that is the BEST NEWS OF THE WEEK!

MyE28.com

MyE28.com

Megasquirt Ignition on Stock Sensors

Megasquirt Ignition on Stock Sensors