Dieselboost's 524compoundTD

Finally, a home for all you 524td oil burners out there.
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Alleslowbuged
Posts: 71
Joined: Apr 17, 2009 11:21 PM
Location: Germany

Post by Alleslowbuged »

Hi,

i don't wand to go vnt route, because i am to concerned about low rpm torque in regard to clutch, gearbox, etc...

Even if i used the car as daily driver in the sumer, i wand only peak power, must be kind of spectacular when boost comes and press you in the seat, i am sure you know what i mean.

I asket about your camplate, as i have also built a 10 mm plunger pump for my golf mk II (1.9 aaz engines) with a tdi camplate (high lift, high angle) and have destroy 3 sets of DN297 nozzle due to too high pressure peak at high RPM, before i swap to 12mm plunger and stock camplate, which is i bit less than 9mm plunger and tdi camplate and just 60% of 10mm plunger and tdi camplate.

Do you also have special nozzles, or do you use stock nozzles or rather the DN318 (525tds)?

Yeah i will get a bigger turbo, i have allready a switzer s2b turbo, t3 to t3 flange adapter with extra flange for external wastegate and adjustable 38mm external WG. I hope i get it installed this winter.

And yes i have etg installed, since then my headgasket an me are best friends. By installing 12mm pump, temperature decrease by around 100 - 200 °C, but at full boost (1,6bar) and high RPM i still can get temperatures up to 1000 °C, i assume this is caused due to my "too small" turbo or rather high exhaust pressure.

Best regards
Alleslowbuged
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

Nozzles are stock and they work... this is tested
some ip mods are secrets by performance shop...

"too small turbo" EXTREMELY too small turbo
let see... if t03 can produce 200hp in gas engine... it can do much less in diesel, as coyote said... about 150hp and all pressure which goes over 1.5bar is only heat...
you dont make anything with pressure... you need more air too
with 2bar boost 12mm rotorhead and big turbo... your 524 will be rocket...

what is your ip timing... i use 1.15mm with 12mm rotorhead

s2b is quite good choice
my friend has s200 in hes 2.5D mercedes and it spools in 2.500rpm
exhaust a/r is about 1.0

exhaust pressure in my 524 follows boost and doesnt exeed it
and exhaust temperature is about 900c
Alleslowbuged
Posts: 71
Joined: Apr 17, 2009 11:21 PM
Location: Germany

Post by Alleslowbuged »

Hi,

ip mods not that big think, once you understood the whole system (ok tooks me serveral year to do that).

I go not higher as 1,6 bar as i know that everthing behind that is only heat and will only torture the egine without extra power. Even 1.6 bar is only active, during drag strip or similar action, at normal driving boost pressure is limited to 1,2 bar, which results in ~195 hp and 440 Nm (quite similar power, but much less torture for the engine).

As i have stock camplate i also use stock static timing (0.76 mm?), because static timing depends only on taper angel of camplate. If you use 1,15 mm as good value this could be a hint for higher angle camplate, if i go for 1,15 my engine sound like a bag of nuts.

I have also increase the hydraulic timing lift of the ip, so i don't have to go very early on low RPM, what nameable helps to spool quicker.

By the side, fun to speak about high power 524td here.

Best Regards

P.S.
If someone is interested in pump mods, here is a link to my pictured pump build for my 1.9 AAZ engine (in german):
http://www.golf1.info/forum/index.php?p ... adID=61668
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

my engine sounds very awful with 1.15mm timing... but that is normal... and many in here has driven with these timings

we have done one ip for my friend with 12mm rotorhead and cam plate from electric ip
but i wanted a perfectly maded ip for my car....

i had 0.90mm timing with stock rotorhead....

btw how much power you got from aaz...

do you have any videos from your e28
Alleslowbuged
Posts: 71
Joined: Apr 17, 2009 11:21 PM
Location: Germany

Post by Alleslowbuged »

Hi,

i have had 165 hp in the azz with k14 turbo, than i swap to T3 turbo (old worn one) to get more top end power and have had less power (150 hp) and no low rpm power at all. It like digital driving, not really fast, but awesome fun to drive. I really love the sound, the engine does in the 3 seconds its need to spool the turbo from cruising around before and the moment when it comes.

You can find all infos, data, pics and videos in german here:
http://www.golf1.info/forum/index.php?p ... adID=62322

or nearly all infos in english here:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24407.0

Actual i have lift the head to expose more room for valce lift, because the engine will get a hoter camshaft. I think it will also get a Schwitzer S2A with external wastegate, but depends on the type of S2a i have.

And yes i have videos and pics of the E28, short build up summariesed thread is here:
http://www.golf1.info/forum/index.php?p ... 4&pageNo=1

all pics here:
http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24 ... /524%20td/

and here are some older youtube videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/eurostyler#p/u

How did your car spool? Did you try timing arround 0.80 mm up to 0.85 mm or just go with the hard way with 1,15 mm. If you really have a higher angle camplate, idle will be like scrap however timing is, than in my eyes stable idle with good throttle response is good. If you have not tried other timing, try something below 1,0 mm and you will wonder what effect this makes to spooling time.

Best Regards
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

it is very hard to tell everything what i know in english

but i try...

so why im using high advantages...
i want to get maximum amount of fuel burned to power
with low advantage large amount of fuel burns weakly and makes only smoke...

that terrible rattle from engine is only that when fuel is injected earlier and faster...
problem in this is that burning pressure is very high...
but engine can take it... but stock gasket cant
:laugh:
This rattle will settled down with little RPM...

RPM in my engine...
RPM with power about >5800 (6000limiter)
engine still pushes smoke with 2bar boost, so there is fuel enough.
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

Alleslowbuged wrote: How did your car spool? Did you try timing arround 0.80 mm up to 0.85 mm or just go with the hard way with 1,15 mm. If you really have a higher angle camplate, idle will be like scrap however timing is, than in my eyes stable idle with good throttle response is good. If you have not tried other timing, try something below 1,0 mm and you will wonder what effect this makes to spooling time.
i just starting my engine test... when i get mls on it...
i know that with bigger advantage spooling is high

0.90mm spools quite nicely and low... higher rpm power is less...
with 1.2mm spools badly but high rpm power is awesome
these are results from my friends car...
but turbo was very old and with quite large turbine chamber

but there is many other things what helps spooling
-cylinder head
-exhaust manifold
-turbo
-cam

with stock ip and with 0.87mm advantage turbo spooled in 1800rpm

my idle is very stable... but sound... yah.. you know like stones in metal bucket... :)

it idles like in this vid... http://www.youtube.com/user/boostturbo? ... sAp6Tx-MYY

1.15mm with 12mm rotorhead etc
CoyoteStarfish
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Post by CoyoteStarfish »

"stones in a bucket" is the best description for advanced timing on these engines that I've ever heard. :laugh:

On my US version M21, the injection pump has a timing advance solenoid controlled by ECU... it is not hydraulic. And recently my wiring harness burnt up and I have discontinued my ECU. Now I operate at full advance all the time and I get the "stones in a bucket" sound under 1,500RPM.

I'm trying to acquire another US M21 injection pump and transfer the hydraulic advance from another VE pump (VW, Cummins, etc) into it. Of course I will change the rotor head, cam plate and governor while I am in there too. :cool:
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

Night shift at garage.

ok... tasks done
-Larger bolt holes to cylinder head
-new threads to block for 12mm bolts
-mls gasket with vht copper gement

cylinder head is now on the place... and waterhoses and electrics are ok...

next i must widen exhaust manifold holes...
this cylinder head is with bigger seats and valves
intake valve 38mm (stock 35mm)
exhaust valve 34mm (stock 31mm)

and second i need to adjust engine timing...

im totally exhausted after 14hour working session, so im going to get some sleep before i continue project...
CoyoteStarfish
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Post by CoyoteStarfish »

Sounds good. :up: How well did the M51 head bolts work?


I need to get back to my project, too. One of my cylinders has started to knock on startup... I still haven't replaced my injectors yet. Haven't had the money to do so :dunno:
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

CoyoteStarfish wrote:Sounds good. :up: How well did the M51 head bolts work?
Those where very easy task...

hardest part where new threads... little sweating was founded....
:)

two washers for each bolt because m51 bolts are little longer than m21

head gasket where easy to assemble without "cyl head guides"
i used those guides in first stages of work....
i glued gasket to the block with some vht copper glue and instant Adhesive...
then i removed guides... and sprayed more vht to upper side of gasket...
next i lifted cyl head on the place...
cyl head bolt holes are now 12.1mm
so cyl head doesnt need anymore those guides...

funniest thing was when we lifted head the wrong way round
and scariest thing.... both me and my friend are specialists... :facepalm:

btw my friend has over 600bhp 2litre toyota celica gt-four ;)
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

Some people may think, what we do when we get bored....

This...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Qa9WfjfDOc
CoyoteStarfish
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Post by CoyoteStarfish »

I see rednecks exist in other countries, too!
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

i got fast working with my exhaust manifold today.... now i need only flange for cylinder head... i think i will order that from local metalworks school... their quality of work is good and all what they made is cheap.... actually im former student... but from car mechanic section...

i got my new rebuilt injectors to my cylinder head...
intake manifold is on the place too...

now the major problem... i dont have start motor :?
and i dont have money either...
so i must get that for free from somewhere....
CoyoteStarfish
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Post by CoyoteStarfish »

:?

Maybe this will cheer you up. 325tds with a HX35 and other stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBvk7FouFF4
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

nice... that went right away to my favorites in youtube! ;)
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

Boring... my flange maker is slow :zzz:
winfred
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Post by winfred »

naaaa really :D http://www.carbidbus.nl/Carbid1/Carbids ... favou.html
CoyoteStarfish wrote:I see rednecks exist in other countries, too!
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

:laugh:
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

My friend decided to take his e28 out of road caused by terrible rust problem.... now car is only for fun.... and ice track...

but here is some fun stuff video from airfield testing....
http://youtu.be/PWAt_Lhe8lc
CoyoteStarfish
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Post by CoyoteStarfish »

Holy... :shock:


That flame from the exhaust. What were the EGTs on that? :rofl:
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

CoyoteStarfish wrote:Holy... :shock:


That flame from the exhaust. What were the EGTs on that? :rofl:
we dont have egt in this engine.... :laugh:
my guess is... lot

first we had 2.5bar boost in ending of video we had 2bar
exhaust pressure was 1.8bar with 2bar boost

i cant wait what my car does on that airfield :pimp:

what is interesting that this car has stock head gasket...
Alleslowbuged
Posts: 71
Joined: Apr 17, 2009 11:21 PM
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Post by Alleslowbuged »

what is interesting that this car has stock head gasket...
My quess is, that the reliability of the stock headgasket is mainly affected by the surface condition of the engine block. I have to add, that this is only "true" for old engines and relatively new headgasket.

My engine has had significant deepening in the surface, i would estimate a deep of something around 0,05 mm - 0,10 mm (~ 300 000 km)

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
(hope that my AAZ will run in EVO II mode in the next 14 days)
[/quote]
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

typically block is bent from middle...
my engine surfaces was good shape... but it doesnt help either

we thought with my friend that difference betweenn my and my friend car is timing advantage...

my friend uses 0.90mm advantage while my engine has 1.15mm

so burning pressure is much higher than engine of my friend...

second thing is that my friend has much older turbo garrett t03/t04 with 50mm compressor

i have new masterpower with 56.5mm compressor

my old gasket exploded from end of the block... so this is not caused that bending phenomenon

and my friend actually has victor reinz aftermarket gasket
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

btw... my exhaust manifold flanges arrived :banana:
Alleslowbuged
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Post by Alleslowbuged »

Hi,

sounds good with your flanges, i really waiting for some news from your engine.

Regarding the headgasket, i don't mean overall bending of the block surface, what i mean is very partial plane holes in some areas.

If i remember correctly, all my headgasket problems occour on cylinder 1 or between cylinder 1 and 2 on the driver side. The last one was broke directly behind the belt tigthener of the timing belt, engine still runs nearly normal (no white smoke, no extra pressure in the cooling system), but makes a noise as the head has had a big hole directly to the precup and there was nothing to see or to locate, because it was behind the tightener.

Image

Best Regards
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

soon.... very soon... my exhaust manifold is almost ready...
few new pics in eye candy
Alleslowbuged
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Post by Alleslowbuged »

Hi

a bit off topic.

I have finish my AAZ rebuilt und have to recognice that i have a leakage between colling water and exhaust port from cylinder 1.

Do you or you friends have experience with welding this kind of leackage on IDI cylinderheads.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

My m21 head is welded up fully... it was cracked from every place...

good way to weld those is
1. open those cracks fully with grinder
2. then heat up the head
3. weld it
4. heat up again
5. very slow cooling
DieselBoost
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Post by DieselBoost »

My turn to go off topic...

In next saturday our electric music collective is hosting a web radio from my apartment...
Good electric music, live dj:s, funny chatting (in finnish, maybe some words in english too ;) )

Its free etc...

time 12:00-19:30 in our time in finland...
here is the link to the radio...
http://loudcaster.com/channels/676-harder-fi

btw there is 24/7 automatic radio... ;)
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