MyE28.com

I just read through the complete thread. Nice job on your turbo job and persistence.

Chrishamman wrote:I just read through the complete thread. Nice job on your turbo job and persistence.

Thanks for the compliment. I guess this is as good a time as any for a little update. I have been reliably daily driving the car for the last two months with only minor issues that I have been sorting out. I even have the AC working now! I am running 8psi on a MBC and it feels very fast. It has traction "problems" in third gear with 235 tires on it. I am tired of the MBC though, so I ordered an electronic boost controller this week and will hopefully have it next week for a nice weekend project. It will make tuning my maps above 8psi easier as I won't have to keep opening the hood to adjust boost. It gets really old after a while. All in all, I am super pleased with the car and have surprised alot of people with it. It's more proof that a low budget turbo build is possible to do while retaining reliability as well as creature comforts.

What diff ratio are you running?

A 3.73 from when I was NA and its waaay to short. First gear is pretty much useless but it does make for some wicked acceleration through second and third. It's also really busy one the freeway. I'd really like a 3.25lsd. I think that would be perfect.

Big Bronze Rim wrote:A 3.73 from when I was NA and its waaay to short. First gear is pretty much useless but it does make for some wicked acceleration through second and third. It's also really busy one the freeway. I'd really like a 3.25lsd. I think that would be perfect.

PM Sent!

Great custom turbo man..Now I feel really psyched to do my own... But with all the work involved I think I should just stick to my m20b20 stock haha... But really great stuffs. What kinda weld did you use on the manifolds? I only know MIG cause its the simplest haha. And tuning MS2 and stuffs..phew need to read a lot of stuffs.. But would love to give it a shot...

The manifold was made from mild steel weld els and flanges. It was all MIG welded. It was alot of work but it was definitely worth it!

i've got a 2.93 lsd in great shape if you want some traction for $240 shipped to you....

Big Bronze Rim wrote:A 3.73 from when I was NA and its waaay to short. First gear is pretty much useless but it does make for some wicked acceleration through second and third. It's also really busy one the freeway. I'd really like a 3.25lsd. I think that would be perfect.

When I first purchased my car, it had a 3.25 lsd , however it had a bad bearing in the diff - it sounded as if there was no fluid in it! - I didnt drive it very much, however I installed a 3.73
lsd and I like it better on the freeway, the accel is very rapid from 70 up!

grahamcam wrote:

Big Bronze Rim wrote:A 3.73 from when I was NA and its waaay to short. First gear is pretty much useless but it does make for some wicked acceleration through second and third. It's also really busy one the freeway. I'd really like a 3.25lsd. I think that would be perfect.

When I first purchased my car, it had a 3.25 lsd , however it had a bad bearing in the diff - it sounded as if there was no fluid in it! - I didnt drive it very much, however I installed a 3.73
lsd and I like it better on the freeway, the accel is very rapid from 70 up!

Is this on an auto or a 5-speed?

Well, as much as I sometimes hate the 3.73, the acceleration is crazy. Even with 255s out back, I can still spin the tires with authority through 3rd gear. I made it a point to try that out tonight on my way home from work. It is a whole lot of fun and don't know if I'll be disappointed if I go to a taller gear.

I still had the 3.91 when I got mine running at first. 1st was too short. If I stepped on the throttle, the tires would smoke and the tach would hit the rev line instantly. On the freeway, however, 60-120 was about the same as 0-60. I like the 3.46.

your build really inspires me for my build and has me really excited.


I do have one question though, maybe I missed it in your posts but what size are the weld els did you use and where did you get them? I can't find what I feel is appropriate to as far as weld els locally, every shop I go to either has something way to thin (like 18 ga) or way to thick (walls so thick the ID is really comprimised and small). Did you source your weld els online? or some where locally.

Thanks

-Jess

I used 1.5" schedule 40 mild steel weld els.They have an ID of 1.61" and an OD of 1.90". Wall thickness is 0.145" and is ideal. I bought them locally at a pipe supply place for about $8ea a few years ago. McMaster sells them online but they are a bit more expensive and you've got to pay shipping. Pt number 43425K151. I would also get a short stick of straight pipe as well.
1.5" ID, 2.25" radius, 90 Degree Elbow - butt weld

since I read this again last night, you really got gears turning in my mind...dammit, and usually what alijonny want....alijonny get. yes, i become a monster with choppy language skills. I just can't wait to tinker with megasquirt. and hey, whats better than having a whole car for mock-up? lol. talk about no down time!

alijonny wrote:since I read this again last night, you really got gears turning in my mind...dammit, and usually what alijonny want....alijonny get. yes, i become a monster with choppy language skills. I just can't wait to tinker with megasquirt. and hey, whats better than having a whole car for mock-up? lol. talk about no down time!

Do it man, do it! Having a mockup car is huge. Make the parts them bolt them on like a kit. The next best thing is another car to drive.

hey, can you show or tell where the maf sensor is?

alijonny wrote:hey, can you show or tell where the maf sensor is?

Maf?

There is no MAF sensor with Megasquirt. Its uses a 250kPa built in MAP sensor. I ran vacuum hose through the fire wall into the glove box.

You can run MS with a MAF sensor (as well as alpha-N), but I can't think of a reason why it would be used with forced induction.

thesixerkid wrote:

alijonny wrote:hey, can you show or tell where the maf sensor is?

Maf?

There is no MAF sensor with Megasquirt. Its uses a 250kPa built in MAP sensor. I ran vacuum hose through the fire wall into the glove box.

You can run MS with a MAF sensor (as well as alpha-N), but I can't think of a reason why it would be used with forced induction.

Absolutely correct. There is no MAF. MS is speed density (it can also use alpha-n, or even blended alpha-n, if desired).

Just got back from a trip down south & had a chance to ride in this beast. Very solid build, good tune & FAST as $&$! I fear for anything that pulls up next to this sleeper ie; a thorough thrashing is sure to follow. Props man!

That is cool

By the way have you done a dyno run, or race another car to check out how fast is your ride BBR?

Well, I haven't run the car at the dragstrip yet. I have a few more things to do to the car before I take it out (mostly suspension related). I haven't "officially" run any cars but I do know that I let my friend with a 92 NSX drive my car and he was thoroughly convinced that my car was considerably faster. Hopefully some dyno numbers will be forthcoming in a few months and some dragstrip times in the fall when the weather cools off.

I wish you the best from my heart!

Well will testing Opel Astra 4door 1,6lt turbo (195 at flywheel on a MAHA dyno and 1290kilograms) when my car boosts it feels more strong than the Opel in not only my opinion but my friend's too, he said "Wow It is considerably stronger than mine" he said, the car was at 0,3 overboost, his was 1,3bar , so i guess my car has climbed over 220 HP at flywheel, (185 stock)
but that is all just theory, until it is ready and road tested with the Opel

It's always nice to have a "neutral party" drive or ride in your car. It is so easy to become jaded with your power level that the car may not seem as fast to you anymore. A new user typically does not have the same issue and will be a clearer judge of how the car feels. With that being said, it's still not a replacement for dyno numbers or track times.

Big Bronze Rim wrote:It's always nice to have a "neutral party" drive or ride in your car. It is so easy to become jaded with your power level that the car may not seem as fast to you anymore. A new user typically does not have the same issue and will be a clearer judge of how the car feels. With that being said, it's still not a replacement for dyno numbers or track times.

Indeed those 2 things you mentioned are true!

AHA! no MAF. hmm so a super cheesy BOV with duck call attached is totally possible?

alijonny wrote:AHA! no MAF. hmm so a super cheesy BOV with duck call attached is totally possible?

Totally doable.

i think i'm being jacked around with the weld-els. I went to columbia pipe and supply co and they wanted $12.50/ elbow. but I think it was because I asked for 4 and their minimum purchase is $50. assholes...

by the way, would there be any benefit to getting 45* els? or just cut down the 90* thanks!

I didn't bother with 45s, I just cut them down. IIRC the 90s were cheaper than 45s. Are you building a full mani or an adapter?