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Battery Box HE install.
Posted: May 07, 2007 3:34 PM
by Duke
Here are some pictures. Of course, it has not been as easy as I thought it would be.
I need to do some painting on the valance, mount the other two HE to the valance and then I can button it back up. The fan on the HE is wired with the A/C electric fan in front of the radiator. It comes on automatically when the head pressure in the A/C system trips it. I also have a bypass button so I can turn the two fans on at anytime. I will also be replacing the zip ties with safety wire.
I did some checking and having the ports at the bottom on the HE will not be a problem. All air will be forced out by water pressure.
More pictures when I have the HE mounted on the valance.
Posted: May 07, 2007 4:43 PM
by Shawn D.
Ahem, Duke, in your posts about this setup, you haven't credited the originator of the idea.
Posted: May 07, 2007 5:02 PM
by T_C_D
Duke,
It's been my experience that you will not be able to bleed the air out of the HE with the fittings on the bottom.
Todd
Posted: May 07, 2007 5:49 PM
by Duke
T_C_D wrote:Duke,
It's been my experience that you will not be able to bleed the air out of the HE with the fittings on the bottom.
Todd
How did this work then?
What about drilling a hole in the top to blead the air and then plugging it? There really is no pressure in the system.
Posted: May 07, 2007 6:01 PM
by Ken H.
Todd's right on this one, Duke. Bleed valves silver-soldered in @ the high point(s) of the HEs simply makes good sense. They will also prevent a vacuum lock when you open the drain valves @ the low point(s) of the system. You are installing drain valves, right?
Posted: May 07, 2007 6:02 PM
by Boru
Duke M535ti wrote:T_C_D wrote:Duke,
It's been my experience that you will not be able to bleed the air out of the HE with the fittings on the bottom.
Todd
How did this work then?
Notice the bleed valves on top of the radiators?
Posted: May 07, 2007 6:06 PM
by Jeremy
Shawn D. wrote:Ahem, Duke, in your posts about this setup, you haven't credited the originator of the idea.
Yea, but does he ever?
Jeremy
Posted: May 07, 2007 7:00 PM
by Mark 88/M5 Houston
A local "Old School" radiator shop should be able to do the "bleed fittings" at a high point on the exchanger. You are going to mount the fan with something other than the zip ties, aren't you?
Posted: May 07, 2007 8:03 PM
by Duke
Shawn D. wrote:Ahem, Duke, in your posts about this setup, you haven't credited the originator of the idea.
Yes....yes.............yes, Shawn is the man who thought this great idea up. Thank you Shawn! Too bad you are not closer to help me make it a reality. My memory is so bad that I did not recall it at all.
Notice the bleed valves on top of the radiators?
Now I do, missed that before.
OK, on to a bleed hole.
How about one of these - requires a 3/16 hole.
Mini Low-Pressure Mechanical Test Plugs
* Plate: Type 304 stainless steel
* Stem: Type 302 stainless steel
* Nut: Aluminum
* Seal: Neoprene
* Temperature Range: -50° to +250° F
Our smallest low-pressure test plugs have a low-profile coupling nut that you tighten to create the seal.
$3.16 from McMaster-Carr
Posted: May 07, 2007 8:34 PM
by Ken H.
Duke M535ti wrote: OK, on to a bleed hole.
How about one of these - requires a 3/16 hole.
Mini Low-Pressure Mechanical Test Plugs
* Plate: Type 304 stainless steel
* Stem: Type 302 stainless steel
* Nut: Aluminum
* Seal: Neoprene
* Temperature Range: -50° to +250° F
Our smallest low-pressure test plugs have a low-profile coupling nut that you tighten to create the seal.
$3.16 from McMaster-Carr
OR, pick up a brass radiator drain valve @ NAPA. The issue is going to be getting a solid, dry seal when you tap the HE end tank, hence my suggestion about looking into having it silver-soldered into place.
Posted: May 07, 2007 8:36 PM
by Duke
Ken H. wrote: OR, pick up a brass radiator drain valve @ NAPA. The issue is going to be getting a solid, dry seal when you tap the HE end tank, hence my suggestion about looking into having it silver-soldered into place.
Remember Ken, this system will see very little pressure. The plug is good for up to 25 psi of water pressure.
Posted: May 07, 2007 8:52 PM
by Ken H.
True, but the silver soldering is a way to eliminate another potential weak (leak?
) point. I dunno how thick the material is on the HE end tanks, so assuring a seal on the threads is a question mark, even if Permatex or something similar gets used.
Posted: May 07, 2007 9:17 PM
by Duke
Ken H. wrote: so assuring a seal on the threads is a question mark, even if Permatex or something similar gets used.
No threads. Just a neoprene seal that gets squished and thus makes the seal.
Posted: May 08, 2007 11:48 AM
by Duke
UPDATE
The second HE will not fit below the battery box HE (BBHE). It will have to stay in front of the radiator where it is now. Plumbing is in except for the HE that will attach to the valance on the passenger side.
You can see where I drilled a .20" hole for the pressure fitting in the BBHE.
The second picture shows the holes cut for the air ducts that will feed air directly to the BBHE and the CAIB.
Posted: May 09, 2007 12:43 PM
by russc
I wouldn't use plastic tie wraps to hold the fan. The wraps become brittle from heat cycling and will break sooner than you think.
RussC
Posted: May 09, 2007 1:14 PM
by Duke
russc wrote:I wouldn't use plastic tie wraps to hold the fan. The wraps become brittle from heat cycling and will break sooner than you think.
RussC
They have been replaced with safety wire.
Posted: May 09, 2007 1:19 PM
by Shawn D.
Duke M535ti wrote:russc wrote:I wouldn't use plastic tie wraps to hold the fan. The wraps become brittle from heat cycling and will break sooner than you think.
They have been replaced with safety wire.
Not to "pile on," but safety wire is not supposed to be a primary fastening device -- it's a secondary device to ensure fixturing of a primary device.