Mike's tip of the week (created by Mike W. at MyE28.com. Not really a weekly tip, but it has all the good ones plus others added by Forum members, on a random basis. Last updated October 6, 2011)

 

Adjusting the AFM (the original webpage is gone, this is a link to my .PDF copy)

 

Idle FAQ (new location 12/3/09)

 

Idle Issues (325 eta but still applies to 528e. Added 4/16/13)

 

Change your oil (even if it's synthetic) every 2,000 miles?

 

Information about the BIG SIX (535i/is) E28

 

BMW Parts Catalog (ETK) (this is the RealOEM.com web site)

 

BMW Clips and Fasteners

 

Getting Trans Fluid into your Manual Trans (link updated 10/10/12) with the StaLube pump and a Listerine bottle is a simple task. The Listerine bottle is short enough to allow pump operation with a moderate vehicle height and the tube is long enough to go into the transmission filler opening, by feeding the tube up over the exhaust pipe next to the filler plug. Have a friend available to add fluid to the bottle, as it will take about 1-1/2 bottles to fill the transmission up.

Removing a frozen or damaged disc rotor mounting screw
These are a problem on a lot of brake jobs, as they are usually incorrectly installed (too much torque, no anti-s

eize compound, worn hex head wrench, etc.) and may have to be drilled and extracted, inorder to get the disc rotor off.

First, if the metric head (5mm) of the rotor screw is not badily damaged or rounded out, you may be able to get it out with good condition 5mm 3/8-inch drive hex head wrench and an impact ratchet tool.

Click to convert torque specs like Nm, KG-CM, etc., to inch-pound, foot pound, etc.

Click to convert fuel mileage mpg to litres per 100 km and other measurments.

And where are those timing reference marks?

 

This is "Top Dead Center", as indicated by the line on the damper (bottom arrow) and the raised marker (top arrow) in the face of the belt cover housing, just above the top edge of the damper, lined up with each other. I've included it here since quite a few people aren't sure what to look for, as manual photos are not clear enough.

 

NOTE - The radiator has been removed which is being replaced with a new radiator. This allows these pictures to more clearly show the items being addressed here, while the radiator is out of the vehicle.

 

The Cam gear, cylinder head and crankshaft timing marks are shown below.

 

Cam gear and cylinder head timing marks.

A white grease pencil was used to highlight the cam gear embossed arrow and the edge of the cam gear tooth directly in line with it. Yes, the belt is one tooth off... thanks to BMW dealer service! You have to get down on your knees with your chin right on the top of the front grille, in order to site these marks properly. Otherwise, you will not see what the actual alignment is. And make sure you are making this alignment check after you have rotated the engine two complete revolutions to set the belt tension, as specified in the Bentley manual!

 

Crankshaft and housing reference marks for the timing belt alignment.

New Valve Cover Blind Plugs.

Don't forget to replace the Valve Cover Blind Plugs, for the rocker arm shaft ends. Too often overlooked and a big trouble maker for the timing belt if the front plugs start leaking... and they will if they are old and dried up and will ruin the belt way before its time! Leaky plugs will also create idle mixture problems since they'll be leaking air. A difficult problem to find and few people actually give thought to these plugs, as I've traced quite a few 528e vacuum leak/idle problems to these Blind Plugs on other owners cars! Keep extra's on hand, they are less than a buck a piece!

 

Ready for new timing belt, tensioner, water pump, drive belts, thermostat and radiator.

Before you start putting everything back together (except for the cam front seals) take some time to clean up the area, including "chasing" any threads that may need to be cleaned up due to corrosion, dirt, etc., and the same for the bolts going back on the engine. A clean engine makes it much easier to see future potential trouble spots and it's well worth the effort. Additional info and pictures are available at Pelican Parts, dealing with a belt change on an E30, but still the M20 engine.

 

NOTE - AC Compressor belt remove/replace

On my eta engine, the compressor is mounted via a plate that is secured at the top by four cap screws (see picture above), two in holes next to the block, two in adjustment slots toward the fender well, with a single large pivot bolt at the bottom. Because the clearances are so tight, the only way I've been able to replace this belt is by removing the top four cap screws (you can see in the picture above, that the plate has been moved off its mounting points) and the bottom pivot bolt. Then the compressor can be moved close enough to the block, including the ability to angle the front of the compressor toward the crankshaft, to allow belt removal. I've also changed the belt from a 818mm length to a 825mm, which gives needed additional length to allow belt installation. Still not an easy task, but it can be accomplished by yourself, without assistance from a friend, a pry bar, or the starter motor!

 

Update October 11, 2012

On the older M20 engines the cam belt gear and the idler gear are pressed metal and some have been found to fail due to age, fatigue and rusting. These gears were updated in late 1986 to what is known as the 'SINTER' gear, which is a much more robust gear construction. If you have the older stamped gears, you should replace them, which is what I have done. A forum thread discussing a broken older stamped style Idler gear is here, although the photos are poor quality.

 

If you have a hard disk failure, or simply upgrade an old disk drive, take the unused drive apart and remove the two magnets inside, as they are very, very strong and can be used for many things. Below is a picture of a drive that had a massive failure, showing where the magnets are located.